Sumi-e / Ink Painting Books, i

Over the past year, I have gotten some requests about recommendations for sumi-e / ink painting books.  In my own collection, I have a number which are still available on today’s market.  Current books will be the focus for today’s posting; later I will move into other books in my library which may still be available as used, or in re-issued editions.  Calligraphy books will be in their own postings.

These are technique books.  Some are filled with little text and a lot of pictures, others have a lot of writing as well.  There are times when I love to read, and there are times when I want a picture to copy and learn from it.  My mood and subject interest will determine which book I choose.

By copying a picture, you have to analyze what is going on, and figure out how you will do it.  This means looking at the brush strokes – even if there is a description in the text on how to load the brush, angle it, and move it.  It never hurts to do these as practice because that is how we all master anything – through repetition, thought, doing.

Current Sumi-e / Ink Painting Books

Copying the Master and Stealing His Secrets, by Brenda Jordan and Victoria Weston

I am placing this book a the top of the list because it is important to understand a bit of the history of an artist’s training in traditional Japan, not just in modern times, but hundreds of years ago.

Copying the Master explores the handing down of painting traditions in Japan from one generation to the next.  Students may vary in ability, but the skills taught allow the student to gain technical skills needed for successful painting.  Japanese tradition in teaching is through observation, not explanation, at least in the arts, as I understand it.  This book has some amusing stories behind the students’ learning, as well as give the reader an appreciation of what it meant to be an art student in an artist’s atelier.  Whether or not the old masters of the Renaissance taught their students in the same way is an interesting thought – natural skill, observation, or was it more didactic, as we may find in today’s art schools?

For myself, this book is of considerable importance because understanding the traditions behind Asian art training really helps lessen my sense of guilt about copying someone else’s work!  After all, plagiarism is seriously frowned upon; the same may be said for copying another’s artwork.  Besides that element, this book broadens the reader and artist’s appreciation of the cultural and historical context of the training of artists, as well as acknowledging the whims of fashion and social attitudes about the roles of men and women in the art world.

The Mustard Seed Garden Manual of Painting, translated by Mai-Mai Sze

In and of itself, this is a really wonderful piece of work.  The reason for this is because it has been in print for over three hundred years, in China and Japan – there is a traditional approach which may seem odd, but it does lay a foundation of appreciation for Chinese painting and its place in time.  For the westerner, this book gives valuable understanding about the structure of plants and animals in brush stroke and in outlines (created using a brush).  Because of the fact these images are derived from woodblocks, the nuances of the brushwork are lost, but if you copy the examples, you will create your own subtleties.  In my own library, I have a ten-volume series of this book in Japanese from the early 1900s (I think).

The Way of the Brush:  Painting Techniques of China and Japan, by Fritz van Briessen

This book combines a history of Chinese and Japanese ink painting along with examples of specific brush strokes, their forms and shapes, and how to do them.  While this is not a book for the beginning painter who wants to dive in and just do, this book is, in my opinion, a necessity to begin to understand the aesthetic of ink painting.

Many beginning ink painters – myself included – are lead to believe that all is spontaneous scribbling and splattering.  “Anyone can do that!” is a common approach.  When you get into this book, which may be a bit of a challenge, you learn far more than you ever thought was possible about ink painting.  There is work involved, planning, and thought in a picture, and even though it is only ink on paper (something the Western sense of art tends to devalue), any sumi painter knows that one wrong brush stroke can destroy a painting.  When the appreciation of the mastery of brushwork is gained, a greater appreciation for Asian artwork is gained as well.

For myself, gaining mastery of a brush is essential to my appreciation of Chinese and Japanese art.  As someone with a bit of experience in art media of America and Europe, I have to work very hard to forego my cultural definitions of art.  This is not something I have been able to achieve overnight, but something that has come about through my own painting.  Understanding aesthetics foreign to our own allows a greater appreciation and a deeper valuation of an art, whether in ink painting, pottery, or literature, to name a few.

Chinese Painting Techniques, by Alison Stilwell Cameron

This, like van Briessen’s book, is another book that is informative and practical.  Cameron spent her childhood in China, and spoke Chinese as her first language.  Her training in Chinese art began in her youth, following traditional subjects and training methods.

Cameron does not go into the historical details of Chinese painting, but she does go into the different styles of painting.  She covers brush strokes and their structure; plants, animals, and people; spontaneous painting, and best of all, explores fine line painting.  The scope of this book is broad and much of it is general, but the detail of writing takes the student / reader / artist into areas of ink painting which many books do not cover.

Japanese Ink Painting:  The Art of Sumi-e, by Naomi Okamoto

I’ll admit to some prejudice in favoring this book, partly for the author’s name (!), but also because of the fact Okamoto is from Japan, and has been trained in both Japanese and European art traditions.  As a result, she demonstrates sumi-e in both ways – the gentle, simple, clean aesthetic of sumi-e, as well as the illustrative use of ink in more Western traditions.

The medium of the ink stick is not one in which most westerners have been trained.  In school, it might come along as part of a cultural awareness, but it is not taught in most school classes as an ongoing point of study, such as pencil drawing or watercolor.  Higgins opaque India ink is what most people will think of when it comes to “ink” for artwork.  I think many westerners approach ink painting as an experience so different that the artist really does not learn to appreciate its value as a medium.  Without color, the ink only gives us black and white and shades of grey.  The characteristics of the ink, and the type of paper used, also are odd to us – unsized paper?!  That is usually cheap newsprint.  If you look at Okamoto’s landscape and figure paintings, a different appreciation of ink-on-paper can be developed.

Finally, Okamoto approaches subjects in a less messy and splattery way than a number of western sumi-e painters.  I enjoy her structured approach, which is not tight, but more graceful.  I have learned a lot from this book that I have not found in others; if I were to put it into words, I would say that I understood the simplicity and elegance of an ink stroke most fully in following her instruction – a very subtle experience.

Japanese Ink Painting:  A Beginner’s Guide to Sumi-e, by Susan Frame

Susan Frame combines watercolor techniques and sumi-e strokes in an uniquely personal way.  There is spontaneity in her work which is expressed through a mastery of brushwork.  Most sumi-e is black / white /grey, but Frame adds color intensively.

Brush strokes are demonstrated in this book, and while the author does not go into great detail, the information is clear and well presented.  The student can learn from this book, as well as realize that ink painting does not need to be confined to one’s perception of ink and its role in artwork.

For me, this book is not just about brushwork, but also about having fun, not taking myself too seriously, and letting go.  Frame’s work is splashy and expressive.  My only criticism is that her work appears more Chinese in influence than Japanese, but that is simply my perspective.

The Sumi-e Book, by Yolanda Mayhall

Yolanda Mayhall’s first book, The Sumi-e Book, covers many of the basic strokes of sumi-e and ink painting.  Because she does not introduce color, the beginning student can truly appreciate the nuances of gradation and the impact they have on paper.  From basic brush strokes, demonstrations show how pictures may be created.  Overall, this book covers enough for the beginning student to gain mastery if he or she has the correct supplies.

The Sumi-e Dream Book, by Yolanda Mayhall

I have mixed feelings about this book as far as some of the illustrations – the “dream” pictures make me a bit edgy – but the illustrations of brushwork, flowers, and landscapes are quite enjoyable.  The subtle colors of many of the illustrations bring out the beauty of the brush strokes, but I find that in the very colorful paintings the brushwork is easily lost.

Artists need to explore medium in different ways, not limited ones; the creativity of Mayhall comes through quite clearly.  I also enjoy the fact I can see the evolution of her work and the influence different art traditions play out.  The biggest value of this book is that it takes sumi-e and utilizes it in a melding of both East and West.

Conclusions

Any student of sumi-e / ink painting should know of the traditions behind it, its cultural and artistic significance in Asia.  I think that an appreciation of a traditional art form in its own context takes it beyond just something to look at, and brings it into a realm of personal understanding – I can appreciate a brush stroke far more than before because not only have I read about the training, I have done it, I do it, I struggle to master it.  I know its continuum.

At the same time, I am also a product of western culture and its values and aesthetics.  Being able to take ink painting into my own sense of aesthetic is important for my own expression.  Some people may not approve of the works of Frame or Mayhall, as they break with tradition, but they have a significance because they demonstrate how cultures meld and art develops.  Western art has also made its impact on the visual arts of Asia – there are some very fine oil / acrylic / watercolor painters who have learned our traditional media and mastered it, blending it with their own traditions, and creating wonderful pieces of art.

If you are a serious student of ink painting, I recommend all of these books, each for a different reason.

A Bit of Color, i

The Book and the Paints

I’ve been doing sumi-e for awhile, and now with my return to my Chinese painting class, the urge to paint is getting stronger, and the need for color is making itself known.  However, it never hurts to refresh one’s skills; given this, I dug out a book I’ve had for some time:  Watercolour by Patricia Monahan.  This is a good book for standard watercolor techniques.  So, I’m going through it, front to back, in my spare time.  It’s a good refresher.  As well, these techniques are important to remember as I know many will be used in any subject done in the Chinese style.

In watercolor, I’ve encountered different approaches to how to work – light to dark (Monahan’s approach) and dark-to-light.  Personally, I find that I work more logically light-to-dark, but the truth is that working dark-to-light just confuses me.  Maybe it is something I should deliberately try.  For now, though, I will hold that thought and practice a few simple techniques.

Monahan’s book is broken down into sections.   Currently I am on Washes (having read the introduction and chapter on equipment), which include techniques and then subject matter, such as rain clouds and the beach.  I’ve done a solid wash, into which I’ve done

  • wet-into-wet
  • wet-onto-dry
  • dark to light stripes (not a wash) by adding water to a dark color to lighten it
  • gradated dark-to-light wash

I’m using pan paints, made by Pelikan, and I think they are technically opaque, but I find that they work fine and have a nice degree of transparency when diluted. They are convenient and easy to use on my crowded desk. For paper, I have a 7 x 10 inch block of hot press, 140 pound, Arches. I’m using both sides of the sheet for the exercises.

Washes:  Solid, Wet-into-Wet, Dry-onto-Wet

The very first exercises in the book are reviews, or introductions, of the wash.  The solid wash is explained, and demonstrated.  From there, the author moves into wet-into-wet.  Below, you will see it in the upper left corner of the picture.  Wet-onto-dry is also done, with a wash laid down, allowed to dry, and then another color applied over it.  This is illustrated by the weird circles in the lower left corner.  Finally, layering of color is done, which you will find on the right.  I kept the same strength of color for the layers, and applied about eight.  The results are quite nice.

Diluting a Dark Wash

This next exercise was actually one I’ve never encountered before.  This consisted of creating a fairly dark wash, and continuing to dilute the wash with the same amount of water.  Each stripe in the picture below shows what occurs as the intensity of pigment is weakened.  I was not scientific because I did not measure out specific amounts of water, but I did add two brushes full of water to the pan as I moved along.  It seems to have worked out well.

Gradated Wash Using Flat Brush and Round Brush

Next was the ever-popular gradated wash.  Onto dry paper, color is placed at the top and diluted as the color is worked down.  I did this twice, using a flat brush on the left, and a large round on the right.  Both have their merits.

Two Gradated Wash Methods

This next exercise consisted of placing a gradated wash onto dry paper and moving it into damp.  This is on the left side of the picture below.  I used a small sponge to dampen the lower half of the paper, and then at the top began my wash on dry paper.  As I moved down the dry section, I added a bit of water, and then continued on down into the damp section, moving left to right and back.  When I got to the damp section, I did not add any more water, nor pigment, but just let it become weaker.  This was a brand new technique for me.  On the right I did the dampened paper with a gradated wash.  The paper was dampened with a sponge, allowed to dry a bit, and then a standard gradated wash done.

First Exercise:  Monochrome Rain Clouds

Finally, the first exercise:  monochrome rain clouds.  Using black, I laid down a gradated wash onto dry paper.  Before I let it dry, I used the sponge to lift up some of the color.  I squeezed the sponge out into my waste water jar and continued.  After I let this area dry, I laid down some medium and darker washes, doing some wet-into-wet, some lifting, and so on.

I was pretty nervous doing this as I was sure it would all be a disaster, but decided to trudge on rather than freak out! I always over do my watercolors – or nearly. I get sooooo frustrated! However, I am rather pleased with the results, and will do a few more monochromes before moving onto the next exercise which is the same thing – rain clouds – but with a limited palette.