Tag: painting demonstration

A Bit of Color, i

The Book and the Paints

I’ve been doing sumi-e for awhile, and now with my return to my Chinese painting class, the urge to paint is getting stronger, and the need for color is making itself known.  However, it never hurts to refresh one’s skills; given this, I dug out a book I’ve had for some time:  Watercolour by Patricia Monahan.  This is a good book for standard watercolor techniques.  So, I’m going through it, front to back, in my spare time.  It’s a good refresher.  As well, these techniques are important to remember as I know many will be used in any subject done in the Chinese style.

In watercolor, I’ve encountered different approaches to how to work – light to dark (Monahan’s approach) and dark-to-light.  Personally, I find that I work more logically light-to-dark, but the truth is that working dark-to-light just confuses me.  Maybe it is something I should deliberately try.  For now, though, I will hold that thought and practice a few simple techniques.

Monahan’s book is broken down into sections.   Currently I am on Washes (having read the introduction and chapter on equipment), which include techniques and then subject matter, such as rain clouds and the beach.  I’ve done a solid wash, into which I’ve done

  • wet-into-wet
  • wet-onto-dry
  • dark to light stripes (not a wash) by adding water to a dark color to lighten it
  • gradated dark-to-light wash

I’m using pan paints, made by Pelikan, and I think they are technically opaque, but I find that they work fine and have a nice degree of transparency when diluted. They are convenient and easy to use on my crowded desk. For paper, I have a 7 x 10 inch block of hot press, 140 pound, Arches. I’m using both sides of the sheet for the exercises.

Washes:  Solid, Wet-into-Wet, Dry-onto-Wet

The very first exercises in the book are reviews, or introductions, of the wash.  The solid wash is explained, and demonstrated.  From there, the author moves into wet-into-wet.  Below, you will see it in the upper left corner of the picture.  Wet-onto-dry is also done, with a wash laid down, allowed to dry, and then another color applied over it.  This is illustrated by the weird circles in the lower left corner.  Finally, layering of color is done, which you will find on the right.  I kept the same strength of color for the layers, and applied about eight.  The results are quite nice.

Diluting a Dark Wash

This next exercise was actually one I’ve never encountered before.  This consisted of creating a fairly dark wash, and continuing to dilute the wash with the same amount of water.  Each stripe in the picture below shows what occurs as the intensity of pigment is weakened.  I was not scientific because I did not measure out specific amounts of water, but I did add two brushes full of water to the pan as I moved along.  It seems to have worked out well.

Gradated Wash Using Flat Brush and Round Brush

Next was the ever-popular gradated wash.  Onto dry paper, color is placed at the top and diluted as the color is worked down.  I did this twice, using a flat brush on the left, and a large round on the right.  Both have their merits.

Two Gradated Wash Methods

This next exercise consisted of placing a gradated wash onto dry paper and moving it into damp.  This is on the left side of the picture below.  I used a small sponge to dampen the lower half of the paper, and then at the top began my wash on dry paper.  As I moved down the dry section, I added a bit of water, and then continued on down into the damp section, moving left to right and back.  When I got to the damp section, I did not add any more water, nor pigment, but just let it become weaker.  This was a brand new technique for me.  On the right I did the dampened paper with a gradated wash.  The paper was dampened with a sponge, allowed to dry a bit, and then a standard gradated wash done.

First Exercise:  Monochrome Rain Clouds

Finally, the first exercise:  monochrome rain clouds.  Using black, I laid down a gradated wash onto dry paper.  Before I let it dry, I used the sponge to lift up some of the color.  I squeezed the sponge out into my waste water jar and continued.  After I let this area dry, I laid down some medium and darker washes, doing some wet-into-wet, some lifting, and so on.

I was pretty nervous doing this as I was sure it would all be a disaster, but decided to trudge on rather than freak out! I always over do my watercolors – or nearly. I get sooooo frustrated! However, I am rather pleased with the results, and will do a few more monochromes before moving onto the next exercise which is the same thing – rain clouds – but with a limited palette.

Chinese Painting Class, 23 May 2009 – iii

The Demonstration

Chinese and Japanese paints must be waterproof once they dry, because of traditional mounting processes. In class, we use Marie’s, which come in packages of 12 or 18 colors. The picture of Marie’s shows you the ones we use; if you are new to Chinese painting, be sure to get the ones shown, as Marie’s also makes western watercolors, which are not waterproof.

Teacher has set his table up to work.  If you look at the picture, you will see that the other tables are covered in green paper.  On his working table is a large, felt pad.  This is used to absorb any paint or ink which bleeds through, as well as support, the thin paper used in painting.  You can see ink stains all over it.  To the left, the paints are placed, and the ink.  Above this, water.  The book or subject matter is above the paper, and below that, to the right of the paint, is the paper itself, which a soft, unsized paper.  Finally, note the paper towel that Teacher is using.  Make sure you have soft, absorbent rags on hand, or paper towels when you paint.  You will certainly need them, to blot your paper to prevent bleeding, as well as to pull excess moisture from your brush – if you don’t, you could end up with a sea on your paper because it is so absorbent!

As with western watercolors, it is important to have a palette which will allow pigments to remain pure and uncontaminated by others, as well as large areas where colors can be mixed together.  This palette is a tray for a desk drawer, bought at a dollar store.  You can see how it is being used.

Teacher has chosen the painting to copy, and has begun to paint.

The peony color is alizarin crimson. The brush is loaded with water, dipped into a wash of alizarin crimson, blotted, and then dipped into a more concentrated or pure mix of alizarin. When you dip your brush into water, just dip the tip, and allow the absorbency of the brush fibers pull up water. Then, in the dilute paint, use only the tip, and allow the fibers to absorb the color. When you blot your brush, lay it on its side, and you will see how the colors are stronger toward the brush tip. Again, dip your brush into the alizarin. Blot your brush again, or not at all. If you want to, you can also hold your brush with the tip upward to move pigment up the bristles; this is really effective you are using more than one color on your brush.

Before I continue, I suggest you take a look at how Teacher is holding his brush, even though it is a western one! (The sumi painter Susan Frame describes how to load the brush, and hold it.)  To paint the petals, he is using the length of the brush, at an angle, not just the tip, and creating the petals in one or two strokes. This way the gradated paint in the brush, in combination with the absorbency of the paper, create the subtle variations in color which characterize the flower petals, as you can see below. Note that as Teacher paints, the colors become weaker. He uses the paint in the brush to make many petals before reloading his pigments.

If you look in the above pictures, you will see that the colors range in intensity from light to medium. I think most of the petals have been done with the first loading of the brush. Now, Teacher has reloaded his brush, and is using pure pigment to create the a sense of depth in the petals, as would be seen toward the center of the flower. As the pigment is used up, lighter petals may be painted toward the edge of the flower. Notice the aura around the petals – this is the water spreading into the paper around the paint.

Tonality is an important element in any painting. It gives a sense of dimension and depth. Without it, a painting is weak. For many artists, this is difficult to see. For myself, I see color before I see tones, and if the color is more intense, or I have a preference for it, I can miss it altogether. To combat this tendency, use your digital camera and software to compare a color image next to one which is rendered solely in greys. This is a great tool to understand tone. You can see below that Teacher has done a great job!

At this point, Teacher lets the painting dry. This is necessary for the fine brush strokes which will be used to emulate the stamens and pistils of the flower’s center. Sometimes, to hurry things along, you can use a hair dryer! The paper’s absorbency will work against you for detail, so a very dry brush, and pure pigment (fresh out of the tube is best!) are your best options. If you don’t do this, the paint might bleed into the petals, and ruin everything you have just done.

A closer look will show that the blue is quite opaque, probably straight out of the tube, but the yellow is diluted. Because the paper is dry, the thinned yellow does not bleed into the paper and make a mess, but remains settled on top of the alizarin petals.

Now, it is time to add the stems and leaves to the peony. Teacher has chosen a large brush with dark bristles. This is a “hard” brush, with a resilience that can give crisp lines which vary as pressure is applied – very effective for painting twigs, branches, and stems. Notice how Teacher holds the brush for the leaves – at an angle. I expect the lighter leaves were a combination of yellow and green loaded into the brush – water, yellow, green. The darker ones were most likely water, green, and ink. Also, notice how fine a point is possible. This is a large brush, which is perfect for laying down large leaves, but the fine point allows for more delicate strokes as well. The brush is considerably dryer for the stems and leaves than it was for the petals.

The painting is nearly done. However, to complete the composition, Teacher added some peony buds, and veins to the leaves, which were worked in while the leaves were somewhat damp. Often, as he paints, Teacher presses the paper, checking for its moisture content before adding to an area.

And finally, the peony is finished. Calligraphy is added – sorry, but I don’t remember what it means! – and the painting is completed. You can see it below, including my shadow in the lower left corner! The finished size of this painting is probably about 20 inches (50 cm) square.

Before you move on to the rest of this rather long entry, I also want you to observe what Teacher has done in this very simple painting.  From top to bottom, he has moved from light and medium into dark.  The peony is light, and so are some of the leaves, toward the top of the painting, but increasing in darkness toward the bottom.  From left to right, or in different areas, the shades of the leaves vary from warm to cold.  This is a subtle element in the finished painting, but without it, the painting could be dull and uninteresting, yet you would never understand why.  Try this out – painting only a “cold” or “warm” painting, and you will see what I mean.  Unfortunately, my camera does not do justice to the painting at all.

Whenever I look at a painting, I enjoy looking at the details of different areas. Consequently, below you will see details of different areas, each of which has its own beauty. Try to analyze the details as you look at them – consider how it was painted, the sequence of color on the brush, the movement of the brush and number of strokes. Was the brush hard or soft? Was pressure applied and then lifted as the line was created? Was the tip of the brush used, or the side, or both? Was the paint very dilute, or pure? Was the brush loaded with water as the area was painted, damp, or dry? When you think about these, you analyze the painting. When you apply them, you learn skills. When you do them, and master them, you then are capable of creating a painting which combines all the elements with which you have struggled. And, in mastering your brush, you will also be mastering the paper!