Fields of wheat are found throughout the world, and it is a grain of significant nutritional importance to many populations. Technically a grass, wheat originated in the middle east, and was the agricultural foundation for a number of early civilizations.
As a subject to paint in sumi-e, it provides a number of interesting lines and planes. Using a diagram of the plant, pictures of wheat found on the web, and dried grasses for arrangements, there are many resources for the artist. I’ve used a combination of all three as references.
Painting Wheat
The first area to be painted is the seed head. It weights down the plant, and gives a graceful direction to the subject. By painting these first, the focal points of the picture may be chosen. As wheat rests on a top of a tall stem, consideration should be given to the composition – is the wheat going to be upright and tall, or bending over in a graceful curve?
The seeds are painted dark to light, with the ink on the brush being used until gone. Next, the stem and the beard may be painted. The beard is lightly done, with quick graceful strokes. The stem may be created with a pause and pressure at the beginning of the stroke, before continuing on and completing the stem in one movement.
The leaves are done at the end, using the side-brush stroke in combination with vertical strokes which change direction and pressure for character. Finally, the veins of the leaves are done in medium-to-dark ink.
My own wheat is rather amateurish in execution, but that is how one learns. Many sumi artists and calligraphers will practice a subject over and over until the right combination is reached, and the seemingly effortless execution of a painting is done.
The loquat is an evergreen, and can be considered a large shrub or small tree, growing about 12-15 feet tall. The leaves are long and pointy, dark green and thick, with a serrated edges. The sweet-smelling flowers appear in the autumn or early winter, and the fruits are ripe in late winter or early spring. In California, fruits appear April to May. This plant originated in China, was thence exported to Japan over 1000 years ago, and came to the west coast in the 1800s. It is frequently grown for both fruit, and as an ornamental plant.
Loquat fruits, growing in clusters, are oval, rounded or pear-shaped, 2-3 inches long, and can be pale yellow in color to a gold tinged with red. Depending on the type of loquat, the fruit can be rather sour in taste, or very sweet. The seeds of the loquat are lovely, being large and of a shiny brown.
The contrast of the roundish fruit with the wide, pointy leaves makes for an interesting painting subject. Here is my video on painting this lovely plant.
Down the street from us is a yard filled with wisteria that wanders along the fences.
Painting wisteria is delightful. The sweet smell of wisteria, the graceful fall of the leaves, the thick cascades of lavender flowers, the curl of the tendrils, the twists of the trunk.
Begin with the Flowers
The process of painting wisteria, in ink or in color, is the same. The wisteria is painted in medium tones in general, with dollops of lighter and darker flowers for contrast. I start at the top of the cluster, and use short side-brush strokes that are done quickly. First, press down with the brush, then quickly curve it and pull up. Do this twice, aiming at the center. The outer edge of the flower is thicker than the center. Continue doing this down to the end, decreasing the flowers in size. Place only a few flowers at the bottom – just a touch to suggest the petals. Let the flowers dry so that they are semi-damp.
Painting the Leaves
While the petals are drying, decide where you want to place the leaves. Wisteria leaves are long and slim, and are best painted with a graceful swooping motion. Begin with the narrow tip of the brush barely touching the paper, and then as you continue with the leaf, push down as you keep the brush perpendicular to the paper, and then raise the brush up. It is important to note that the leaves of the wisteria are paired opposite each other, evenly along the stem, and are not staggered. The last leaf is single, continuing off the stem.
Dotting the Flowers and Drawing the Leaf Veins
As the leaves dry, it is time to begin to dot the center of the wisteria flowers. Â This should be done in dark ink. Â Just little dots will do. Â The flowers themselves should be damp-to-dry. Â If they are too wet, the black ink will bleed into the flower. Â After you have finished the flowers, return to the leaves, gently creating the center vein with ink slightly darker than the leaf itself.
Tendrils & Trunk
The trunk of the wisteria can be ancient, twisting and woody. Â This provides a dynamic contrast with the graceful quality of the flowers and leaves. Â Paint the trunk with a dry brush using dark ink. Â Lay the brush on its side, and use a hard brush for even more dynamic results. Â Follow this up with swirls of dark ink to create the tendrils.
Wisteria Painting in Sumi-e – The Video
Above is a colored painting of wisteria I did some time ago. Â This video captures much of the process I described above. Â I hope you enjoy it!
This really is my home-made video debut. Â For my birthday, I got a Kodak Zi8. Â I’ve never shot a video in my life. Â It’s been in the back of my mind for some time to try to create videos on various subjects, in particular those related to sumi ink painting. Â I’ve long admired a number of ink artists, and have learned a lot from watching their videos. Â So, I decided to make a video today, just to see what I can do. Â Already, I know that what I have done is incredibly amateur, but for a first try, I decided to go ahead and post what I’ve done. Â Just making the videos gave such a greater appreciation for the thought which goes into a good one, as well as having good editing software. Â The Kodak Zi8 comes with MediaImpression for Kodak, by ArcSoft. Â I’ve managed to add a title and an ending to the file, but nothing else. Â What you see is really unedited footage!
The Art of Grinding an Ink Stick
Many authors of Japanese and Chinese ink-painting books will tell you that while you grind the ink on the stone, with gentle motions, it is a good time to collect oneself. Â I agree. Â I like to take my time, listen to calming music, and relax. Â Focusing on breathing helps – in, out, in, out – slowing down. Â Given the permanency of every ink stroke in sumi, it makes sense to calm down, to control one’s energy, and to take time to become centered. Â Breathing helps. Â I know that if I start out feeling stressed, my painting is stressed, tight and unhappy. Â Grinding ink is a period of transition.
Making the Video
Well, making the video was a pain! Â At first the camera was too low, and the field of vision too narrow. Â I had to build up the height of the camera, and retrain its focus. Â Looking at the video, certainly lighting needs to be improved, and the camera should be coming over my left shoulder, and lighting needs to be less yellow (maybe use the no-light setting!?!). Â Shadows need to disappear.
Purpose of the Video
Show the ink stone, with water
Demonstrate the ink stick
Demonstrate the upright position of the ink stick, and the motion on the top of the stone, as well as pulling the water up from the well of the stone, to continue the grinding process
Show the creation of dark ink, show the creation of medium ink, and the creation of light ink
Show through the time of the video that grinding ink for sumi does take time – it’s not something poured out of a bottle.
The Video
Let me know what you think! Â Try it in HD and full screen, too.
As you know by now, the Asian brush is differently constructed than the Western brush, and its usage has its own traditions. Â Calligraphy and painting are considered to be the same, if you base it on language; it is my understanding that “writing” and “painting” have the same verb in Japanese. Â And, as in Western cultures, a refined hand in writing was believed to reveal the character of the writer.
Calligraphy Brushes on Either Side of a Paint Brush
Calligraphy Brush vs. Paint Brush
Calligraphy canbe done with a regular brush, but perhaps not as easily. Â This picture to the left will show you two calligraphy brushes, which are on either side of one of my favorite paint brushes. Â The noticeable difference is the length of the bristles – the calligraphy brushes are have much longer ones than the paint brush. Â Still, you could use the center brush for calligraphy, but there is more movement to be had when using the calligraphy brushes. If you recall the video in the previous post of Koji Kokinuma, the brush he uses has long bristles – he makes beautiful thin to thick, flying whites, and graceful curves. Close observation shows he changes the brush position as he moves along, twirling the brush in his hand, besides angling his wrist or tilting the brush from the perpendicular.
Hard Bristle Brush
The brush to right, with the dark bristles, is a “hard” brush. This means the hairs are less absorbent, and thus, less ink is held in the bristles. This kind of brush must be refilled more frequently than a soft haired or mixed hair brush, but one of its great qualities is a vibrancy it gives to the lines – sharp, direct, with flying whites as the ink is used up. Dark bristles indicate a hard brush.
The next brush, with the white hairs on the outside, and darker hairs on the inside, is considered to be a mixed hair brush. This kind of brush has lighter, white hair for increased ink capacity, as well as a fuller, rounder body when the brush is pressed into the paper. The harder center allows for a sharper point. This kind of brush can range from a razor thin line to a plump one with very little pressure difference. Angling such a brush can give a very rounded shape to the stroke. If the bristles were all white, then the absorbency and softness of the white hairs would be a dominant feature.
Mixed Hair Brush
Setting Up for Calligraphy or Painting
I am right-handed, so this is how I set up my desk for painting or calligraphy. As I am learning hiragana, I am more interested in memorizing the kana than being artistic, but the fact that kana developed in a culture where the brush, not the pen or quill, was the writing implement, the structure of the kana is derived from brush strokes. Anyone who tries this will understand what I mean – a chiseled Roman capital will not happen with a calligraphy brush!
Set-Up
When it comes to practicing kanji, the form and structure of the character is designed to fit into a square. As you can see, the mosen, which is the felt upon which one paints or writes, has squares with diagonals. Sometimes the squares can be set up like a 9-patch quilt, with 3 x 3 grid. The purpose of these squares is to allow the calligrapher to center the characters within the squares, creating a balance and structure which allows the beauty of each to be seen. Notebooks from Asian countries often have vertical lines to keep characters neat, just as we have horizontal lines in our notebooks. Messiness has its place, but illegibility is not desirable.
Practice calligraphy paper is very thin. This allows the lines to be seen through the paper. This paper is also very absorbent, so before writing, excess ink is removed on the edge of the suzuri, and sometimes even blotted on towelling. If you look at the towels in the photo, you will see a lot of ink stains, from blotting the ink stick after rubbing, and from blotting the brush tip as well. I use the same towels over and over again, and find that cheap, terry dish towels are fantastic. The more I wash and bleach them, the more I like them.
This next image is from the book Chinese Calligraphy, by Qu Lei Lei. Â Here you can see the 3 x 3 grid for the character, as well as one like the one I use. Â You will also see how beautiful the character is, nicely balanced within the square. Â My own attempt is rather short and squat, and lacks the quality of Qu Lei Lei’s example. Â If you are a serious calligraphy student, Chinese Calligraphy is especially nice because the details of dots and lines is far more than what many books will teach. Â They may look easy, but they are not! Â And, it takes practice – my work needs a lot of help!
"Chinese Calligraphy" by Qu Lei Lei
See what I mean? Homely as it is, it does show how the mosen is used with the paper to help center and balance the calligraphic character, and help create the vertical, horizontal, and diagonal lines. The absorbency of the paper I am using also presents a challenge because bleeding of the ink is very common! When you can do this without the mosen, you will have accomplished quite a bit.
Using the Calligraphy Grid
And finally, here is my practice hiragana. In the upper left, you can see how nicely the grid helped center the kana. On the lower right, you can get a good sense of the absorbency of the paper – thick black lines for some kana, to thin, sharp lines as I used up ink.
Hiragana Practice
I used both calligraphy brushes shown above, preferring the mixed hair brush for the smaller practice. I also used some very fine brushes which had maybe only 10 bristles in them. I liked the softer, longer bristled brushes, as I thought the movement of line was more readily accomplished, with smooth transitions from thin and thick and back for the kana, but if I wanted a rugged effect, a hard brush could be quite the right tool for the job.
Brushes are incredible inventions, for all their seeming simplicity. At a future date, I will write more about the manufacture of Asian brushes!