Pushing Up Daisies

Below is an image of a daisy taken awhile ago alongside our house.  It’s rather bland.  Below is the same image, with post-processing done in Photoscape.  You can see that under the top daisy, the flower’s receptacle has become nearly pure black, like a puzzle piece.  Even in the original picture, it is a bit dark, and consequently distracting to the eye.

Original Photo
Daisies with Post-Processing

Neither picture above is especially spectacular, but the post-processing certainly messed up the final image. Below are two more results, the first which is sharpened only from the original. The receptacle is a bit more defined, with its ridges a bit more clear, but not darker. The second one uses the “bloom” feature (which I don’t understand – I’m a novice in post-production photography software) in combination with the sharpening. I think the result is a little better. The whiteness of the petals is more apparent.  I also used the mole removal feature to get rid of the black spot on the foreground daisy.

Daisies Sharpened
Daisies Sharpened and Bloomed

One thing I have a very hard time with visually is contrast – adjacent areas and their shades of grey – when I work in color. Whenever possible, I try to take photos of any artwork I am doing to check out the contrast. High contrast has few shades of grey; low contrast has several. The degree of density in each, how dark or light, can determine the “pop” in a picture. In painting, this can cause items to retreat to the background, or move forward. This is what our mind uses to create depth and dimension in a photograph or a painting.

This next photo is the last one above, converted to greyscale. It is a soft photo, not especially dramatic. There are good areas of contrast, but the petals are lost.

Daisies in Greyscale after Sharpening and Blooming in Color

This next photo is the greyscale photo further sharpened, and the contrast increased.  The petals are more apparent.

Greyscale Daisies with More Sharpening and Contrast

Finally, here are chorus lines of the photos in a row.  It may be worthwhile to look at it, and thus decide which photo is ultimately the best. I set the lines up so they would span the same space, but in doing so, some of the image quality is degraded. What I am looking for is the contrast and clarity in the final image of the petals, the inside yellow part (stamens and pistils? I forget my flower sex!).

Ultimately, I am not sure about any of these photos. I think the viewer needs to determine it. Liking or disliking a photo is a personal thing. I do think, in general, the composition is rather nice, but in retrospect, I should have taken the photo from a more superior perspective, looking into the foremost daisy a bit more, but not by much. Also, to cut down on “busyness,” it would have been a good idea to remove the dropped petal on the most distant daisy, the one up against the wall. If I knew how to remove it with software, I would try it. There is some movement in the photo. The center of the daisy on the left may be a distraction, just as the receptacle on the upper daisy may be too dark.

Good, bad? I need to step back to reconsider! Too close, too much, a bit overwhelming. Later I can make a decision.

Whoopsie Daisies!

One thing which does help is turning one’s work upside down.The same can apply to a photo. Maybe I am more successful than I think, as I really like the movement in this upside down image.  And, in reconsidering, I like the one of the colored daisies only sharpened a bit, with the black spot removed, the best.

Cheapskate Distractions in a Wandering Mind

We watch our pennies.  We don’t have a lot of lolly to throw around on frivolity, but we do make sure we don’t pinch on our hobbies to make life miserable.  There are some things we can do without quite easily, even though we might like to have them, such as a flat panel TV, but compare that to being able to buy malt or hops or paper or a brush, we would prefer to do without the TV.  Good computers are another necessity, partly for telecommuting to work (although that is provided by The Employer), but also for entertainment, information, education.  Clothes are necessary, not optional, but a fantastic wardrobe is not.  Good food varies in cost, but preferably is reasonably priced and fresh.  Packaged food is for the quick moment when flying out the door without a lunch will spell a disastrous day in the classroom.

Lately I am becoming rather re-enamored with photography.  Over the years, I have had SLRs and numerous digital cameras.  I am now considering if it is worth having a DSLR.  Of course, this means money.  My new Lumix DMC ZS5 is a point-and-shoot with a very good lens by Leica, decent video capabilities, aperture and shutter priority, EV, other gizmos, as well as, most seductively, the ability for manual exposure.  This means I can take photos with control over all factors, as far as the camera will let me.  There is no f1.4 or f22, but f3.3 to f6.3.  Shutter speed can be as long as a minute, and as small as 1/2000 second (I think).  Not at all bad for something I can put in a cargo pocket.  And for the cheapskate in me, digital images beat the cost of film and developing without a doubt!

A week ago, I went to the Descanso Gardens with a friend, and he has a Nikon D200.  BIIIIIIIIIIIIG diff!  And that has gotten me thinking.  I don’t like big cameras, and the new 4/3 format looks interesting, but the EP1, EP2, and EPL1 have not quite gotten my attention.  Sony has the NEX-5.  I am only now looking at Pentax, the K-7 and the K-x.  Reportedly these are small cameras, even though they are full DSLRs.  Apparently – and most noteworthy to my cheapskate thinking – is that they are backward compatible for all Pentax lenses.  What that means is, with over 25,000,000 lenses having been manufactured by Pentax, there should be some out there!  There are also rumors of a K-5 coming out on various boards.  Dangerous.

Between now and whenever and when-and-if these thoughts become realities, I’ve decided to become a bit more serious about photography – there is a lot I can do and learn about from the Lumix I have.  Currently, the most fascinating thing is to be able to under-expose an image – something not do-able on most pocket-sized digital cameras – using manual exposures.

Because of this, I’ve gone ahead and reactivated my account on Flickr – and have provided a link to the right.  This way, you or I or anyone can access some of my pictures in greater quantity.  Below, are a couple of my more favorite ones I have done in the past month.

Crabapples
Koi Pond
Up in Ojai
Suzuri Lid

I won’t take credit for the hunk at the top of the page, though.

Sumi-e / Ink Painting Books, i

Over the past year, I have gotten some requests about recommendations for sumi-e / ink painting books.  In my own collection, I have a number which are still available on today’s market.  Current books will be the focus for today’s posting; later I will move into other books in my library which may still be available as used, or in re-issued editions.  Calligraphy books will be in their own postings.

These are technique books.  Some are filled with little text and a lot of pictures, others have a lot of writing as well.  There are times when I love to read, and there are times when I want a picture to copy and learn from it.  My mood and subject interest will determine which book I choose.

By copying a picture, you have to analyze what is going on, and figure out how you will do it.  This means looking at the brush strokes – even if there is a description in the text on how to load the brush, angle it, and move it.  It never hurts to do these as practice because that is how we all master anything – through repetition, thought, doing.

Current Sumi-e / Ink Painting Books

Copying the Master and Stealing His Secrets, by Brenda Jordan and Victoria Weston

I am placing this book a the top of the list because it is important to understand a bit of the history of an artist’s training in traditional Japan, not just in modern times, but hundreds of years ago.

Copying the Master explores the handing down of painting traditions in Japan from one generation to the next.  Students may vary in ability, but the skills taught allow the student to gain technical skills needed for successful painting.  Japanese tradition in teaching is through observation, not explanation, at least in the arts, as I understand it.  This book has some amusing stories behind the students’ learning, as well as give the reader an appreciation of what it meant to be an art student in an artist’s atelier.  Whether or not the old masters of the Renaissance taught their students in the same way is an interesting thought – natural skill, observation, or was it more didactic, as we may find in today’s art schools?

For myself, this book is of considerable importance because understanding the traditions behind Asian art training really helps lessen my sense of guilt about copying someone else’s work!  After all, plagiarism is seriously frowned upon; the same may be said for copying another’s artwork.  Besides that element, this book broadens the reader and artist’s appreciation of the cultural and historical context of the training of artists, as well as acknowledging the whims of fashion and social attitudes about the roles of men and women in the art world.

The Mustard Seed Garden Manual of Painting, translated by Mai-Mai Sze

In and of itself, this is a really wonderful piece of work.  The reason for this is because it has been in print for over three hundred years, in China and Japan – there is a traditional approach which may seem odd, but it does lay a foundation of appreciation for Chinese painting and its place in time.  For the westerner, this book gives valuable understanding about the structure of plants and animals in brush stroke and in outlines (created using a brush).  Because of the fact these images are derived from woodblocks, the nuances of the brushwork are lost, but if you copy the examples, you will create your own subtleties.  In my own library, I have a ten-volume series of this book in Japanese from the early 1900s (I think).

The Way of the Brush:  Painting Techniques of China and Japan, by Fritz van Briessen

This book combines a history of Chinese and Japanese ink painting along with examples of specific brush strokes, their forms and shapes, and how to do them.  While this is not a book for the beginning painter who wants to dive in and just do, this book is, in my opinion, a necessity to begin to understand the aesthetic of ink painting.

Many beginning ink painters – myself included – are lead to believe that all is spontaneous scribbling and splattering.  “Anyone can do that!” is a common approach.  When you get into this book, which may be a bit of a challenge, you learn far more than you ever thought was possible about ink painting.  There is work involved, planning, and thought in a picture, and even though it is only ink on paper (something the Western sense of art tends to devalue), any sumi painter knows that one wrong brush stroke can destroy a painting.  When the appreciation of the mastery of brushwork is gained, a greater appreciation for Asian artwork is gained as well.

For myself, gaining mastery of a brush is essential to my appreciation of Chinese and Japanese art.  As someone with a bit of experience in art media of America and Europe, I have to work very hard to forego my cultural definitions of art.  This is not something I have been able to achieve overnight, but something that has come about through my own painting.  Understanding aesthetics foreign to our own allows a greater appreciation and a deeper valuation of an art, whether in ink painting, pottery, or literature, to name a few.

Chinese Painting Techniques, by Alison Stilwell Cameron

This, like van Briessen’s book, is another book that is informative and practical.  Cameron spent her childhood in China, and spoke Chinese as her first language.  Her training in Chinese art began in her youth, following traditional subjects and training methods.

Cameron does not go into the historical details of Chinese painting, but she does go into the different styles of painting.  She covers brush strokes and their structure; plants, animals, and people; spontaneous painting, and best of all, explores fine line painting.  The scope of this book is broad and much of it is general, but the detail of writing takes the student / reader / artist into areas of ink painting which many books do not cover.

Japanese Ink Painting:  The Art of Sumi-e, by Naomi Okamoto

I’ll admit to some prejudice in favoring this book, partly for the author’s name (!), but also because of the fact Okamoto is from Japan, and has been trained in both Japanese and European art traditions.  As a result, she demonstrates sumi-e in both ways – the gentle, simple, clean aesthetic of sumi-e, as well as the illustrative use of ink in more Western traditions.

The medium of the ink stick is not one in which most westerners have been trained.  In school, it might come along as part of a cultural awareness, but it is not taught in most school classes as an ongoing point of study, such as pencil drawing or watercolor.  Higgins opaque India ink is what most people will think of when it comes to “ink” for artwork.  I think many westerners approach ink painting as an experience so different that the artist really does not learn to appreciate its value as a medium.  Without color, the ink only gives us black and white and shades of grey.  The characteristics of the ink, and the type of paper used, also are odd to us – unsized paper?!  That is usually cheap newsprint.  If you look at Okamoto’s landscape and figure paintings, a different appreciation of ink-on-paper can be developed.

Finally, Okamoto approaches subjects in a less messy and splattery way than a number of western sumi-e painters.  I enjoy her structured approach, which is not tight, but more graceful.  I have learned a lot from this book that I have not found in others; if I were to put it into words, I would say that I understood the simplicity and elegance of an ink stroke most fully in following her instruction – a very subtle experience.

Japanese Ink Painting:  A Beginner’s Guide to Sumi-e, by Susan Frame

Susan Frame combines watercolor techniques and sumi-e strokes in an uniquely personal way.  There is spontaneity in her work which is expressed through a mastery of brushwork.  Most sumi-e is black / white /grey, but Frame adds color intensively.

Brush strokes are demonstrated in this book, and while the author does not go into great detail, the information is clear and well presented.  The student can learn from this book, as well as realize that ink painting does not need to be confined to one’s perception of ink and its role in artwork.

For me, this book is not just about brushwork, but also about having fun, not taking myself too seriously, and letting go.  Frame’s work is splashy and expressive.  My only criticism is that her work appears more Chinese in influence than Japanese, but that is simply my perspective.

The Sumi-e Book, by Yolanda Mayhall

Yolanda Mayhall’s first book, The Sumi-e Book, covers many of the basic strokes of sumi-e and ink painting.  Because she does not introduce color, the beginning student can truly appreciate the nuances of gradation and the impact they have on paper.  From basic brush strokes, demonstrations show how pictures may be created.  Overall, this book covers enough for the beginning student to gain mastery if he or she has the correct supplies.

The Sumi-e Dream Book, by Yolanda Mayhall

I have mixed feelings about this book as far as some of the illustrations – the “dream” pictures make me a bit edgy – but the illustrations of brushwork, flowers, and landscapes are quite enjoyable.  The subtle colors of many of the illustrations bring out the beauty of the brush strokes, but I find that in the very colorful paintings the brushwork is easily lost.

Artists need to explore medium in different ways, not limited ones; the creativity of Mayhall comes through quite clearly.  I also enjoy the fact I can see the evolution of her work and the influence different art traditions play out.  The biggest value of this book is that it takes sumi-e and utilizes it in a melding of both East and West.

Conclusions

Any student of sumi-e / ink painting should know of the traditions behind it, its cultural and artistic significance in Asia.  I think that an appreciation of a traditional art form in its own context takes it beyond just something to look at, and brings it into a realm of personal understanding – I can appreciate a brush stroke far more than before because not only have I read about the training, I have done it, I do it, I struggle to master it.  I know its continuum.

At the same time, I am also a product of western culture and its values and aesthetics.  Being able to take ink painting into my own sense of aesthetic is important for my own expression.  Some people may not approve of the works of Frame or Mayhall, as they break with tradition, but they have a significance because they demonstrate how cultures meld and art develops.  Western art has also made its impact on the visual arts of Asia – there are some very fine oil / acrylic / watercolor painters who have learned our traditional media and mastered it, blending it with their own traditions, and creating wonderful pieces of art.

If you are a serious student of ink painting, I recommend all of these books, each for a different reason.

Lampshades and Buttonholes

What do these have in common?  Both are useful, both are usually ugly.

Given this, these past few days I have been on the quest for a good buttonhole.  I’ve found that the classic eyelet buttonhole is by far the easiest, and attractive.  Unfortunately it is not going to gracefully accommodate a large button if you are using fine yarn.

I have tried a number of them, and none have pleased me, though some have intrigued me.  The best one, beyond the eyelet, is the “Two Lip” or “Tulip” buttonhole by TechKnitter, a genius in the ranks of the knitting world.  It is a bit of work, but I think I can get it.  It was featured in the Summer 2010 issue of Interweave Knits, and it is presented here by Eunny Jang.

In trying out a number of buttonholes, it becomes pretty obvious what their major failing is:  to complete the buttonhole, you turn your work, creating one extra row of new stitches, over which you then work another row.  The result is lumps and holes, and uneven stitches.  Very, very ugly.

This does not occur with the eyelet, nor the Tulips buttonhole.  The eyelet is straightforward – k2tog, yo – and continue on your merry way.  The Tulips buttonhole requires some wraps, unwraps, fiddling with a crochet hook and a double-pointed needle, but it works.  The upper part of the buttonhole is continued in the same direction as you are originally knitting, adding the stitches by doing a yarn over and making a loop with the crochet hook.  Kind of messy to do initially, but it will get graceful later on.

In sewing, I hated buttonholes so much I would make loops for everything.  I have only made eyelets for sweaters because everything else was so dreadful.  As I am designing a sweater for Josh, an eyelet buttonhole will not accommodate a button an inch in diameter.  Necessity forced me into the search – I’ve ripped the sweater out twice now! – and I hope that I will get it down.  Meanwhile, I plan to practice, practice, practice!

Fritatta for One

I’ve been reading Daniel Silva’s books this past month, and in one, Chiara makes a zucchini and potato fritatta.  Out of potatoes, but do have a zucchini.  This is what I did – for only me!  (Josh was still in bed, and I was hungry!)

Zucchini Fritatta
3 small eggs
1 T. milk
2 cloves garlic
1 small zucchini, sliced fine using mandolin or grater
3-4 T. pecorino romano cheese, grated
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil

Preheat oven broiler. In oven-safe saute pan, over medium heat, pour in 2-3 T. olive oil, coating sides if necessary. Heat. Saute chopped garlic and grated / sliced zucchini until lightly cooked.

While garlic and zucchini are sauteeing, vigorously whip together the milk and eggs. Grate the cheese.

Once the vegetables are slightly cooked, pour the egg-milk mixture into pan. Let cook for a minute or so. Sprinkle cheese on top of egg mixture. Remove pan from stove, place under broiler for 1-2 minutes (watch it closely!). Remove from broiler. Set aside to allow eggs to continue cooking through, about 3-5 minutes.

Gently pull edges of fritatta away from pan, invert over plate. Salt and pepper to taste.

Breakfast is Served!