Heads Up! Top Down! – Two Felted Hats

With Christmas looming in the not-to-distant future, I’ve been focused on getting all my presents done. I finished the Fish Hat, I’ve knitted up others to be sent and to be given. Yesterday I finished the second of two hats to be felted and given to Auntie Am (who is younger than me, BTW!).

Years ago I gave Am a knitted and felted hat – that hat has seen Africa, Europe, and Asia – and it is getting quite worn out. She asked for another hat. And so she is getting two. The fact is, I have forgotten a pattern I made up in my head when I was totally into felting knitted hats. This time, I decided it would not be a bad idea to record what I did in pattern form.

My personal preference for felting is handspun yarn that I know will felt – commercial yarns can be more difficult. Finn-Lincoln is a very nice combination. The Lincoln has a quality of luster, and the Finn gives a nice hand. When I make yarn for felting, I ply it rather loosely, as well as spin it loosely. The looseness gives the yarn a better opportunity to felt. The biggest problem with handspun yarn for felting is that it needs to be watched very, very carefully, or else it can become Lilliputian in size.

That said, Am wanted “something in blue.” I had two skeins of Lamb’s Pride Worsted, from Brown Sheep, in “Blue Boy” and “Tahiti Teal.”

Pre-Felted "Heads Up!" in Tahiti Teal
Pre-Felted "Top Down!" in Blue Boy

The recommended needle size for Lamb’s Pride is a US 8; I used 9s as I knit very loosely. I think I could have used 10s or 11s easily enough, but didn’t want to experiment with a present due in a few days!

Designing the Hats

My typical felted hat has a sloping crown which moves into the body, and then expands outward to a brim which will eventually curl up. Both of these hats work on that premise in design, but with different length brims. Heads Up! is started on the outside, working in from the brim. The brim is wider than Top Down! which is knit from the center out, moves into the body, which is knit straight, from a sloping crown, and then into a very narrow brim. Pre- and post- felted, each hat looks rather bell-shaped, and not particularly attractive. On the head, though, they work out quite nicely.

Felting the Hats

I just throw them into the washing machine, hot water, a towel or two, and laundry soap. I washed mine on the heavy cycle a couple of times. They don’t look like much other than soppy rags before I move them into the dryer. As my washer spins things out to the point of being nearly dry, I let that happen. This way, the drying time in the dryer is less, and I can control the felting a lot more. The wetter the hat, the more it will felt, and the more it might shrink. The ones here were in the dryer about 20 minutes with the towels. Again, in the dryer, I used the heavy duty setting to get a lot of heat. More friction, more felting, more shrinking. Mine was at a minimum, although for other projects I have been known to throw them into the washer and dryer more than 5 times!  I have also used my wash tub and wash board, and a plunger, but machines make hard work a lot easier.

Key things to remember are to watch the project as it felts, and to remove it from the dryer while it is still damp-to-very damp, but not soggy. Once you are happy with it, take it out, and shape it on some form.

Shaping and Drying the Hats

I have an old ball I use, one that the dogs outgrew. It’s pretty disgusting, so I put a plastic bag over it to cut down on the ick factor. You could do the same with any plastic ball, or a balloon. Shaping the hat and letting it dry is important because that gives it a memorized form.

Heads Up! Drying on the Ball. Notice the Plastic Bag???

Since I only have one plastic ball, I put both hats on it, with the teal one on the ball, and the blue one on top of it.  Both dried fairly quickly.

The Hats Sans Heads

Until I can see Am at our family gathering, I won’t have any pictures of what they look like on a head.  Nonetheless, here are some pictures of the hats individually on the ball.  The blue one – Top Down! – has a small crown.  The teal one – Heads Up! – looks like it has a small crown, but really, it will flair out when worn.

Top Down! on Ball
Heads Up! on Ball

And in comparison, here is an image of both hats, now dried, side by side so you can see what they look like flat as well as in size and shape.

Top Down! on Top of Heads Up!

I’ll get some pictures of Am in her hats to post later.  For now, you can get this pattern directly here, or by clicking on the “Patterns” or “Patterns for Free” page to the right.

Merry Christmas!

Designing a Pattern: Berets

I’ve been making hats and socks for what seems forever – certainly since high school and college. Both are rather formulaic. Socks are easy enough – if you know how to make socks, you no doubt have your formula, and adapt based on weight of yarn, design elements, and for whom it is being made. Hats are the same – toques, watch caps, berets – all have basic principles, and you move on from there. However, there is a big difference in trying to write down a pattern for someone else to use!

Basic Beret Formula

This is my basic formula for a beret-style hat, and from it have sprung many.

  1. Measure head of intended recipient (if possible). If not possible, I use 18-20 inches for an adult woman, average size (meaning me!).
  2. Figure out the general gauge of yarn in stockinette.
  3. Multiply stitches per inch of yarn, and multiply that number. Example: 6 stitches per inch for a 19 inch head results in 114 stitches.
  4. Determine the ribbing or bottom edging of the hat. If ribbing, I usually will decrease my total cast on so that the hat will be snug, and the stretch of the ribbing will allow for comfort at the same time. If the bottom border of the hat is not in ribbing, I still decrease a bit, but not as much perhaps. A decrease of 1 to 2 inches is normal.
  5. What is the pattern going to consist of after the ribbing or lower edge is completed? If the design has definite elements of obvious knit and purl, I try to work the ribbing into the first row of the pattern, to allow for a smooth transition between the two.
  6. Berets require some expansion from ribbing to the pattern, and this also means increasing stitches. I usually like to increase the number of stitches anywhere from a third more, to doubling, depending on how the pattern knits up. This can be done by increasing stitches in the ribbing or band, as well as moving from smaller to larger needles.
  7. Finally, I knit the hat. As I knit, the hat sort of creates itself, even if I have an idea in mind. Sometimes a hat starts out as slouchy and loose, but the pattern may change that. Or vice versa. Sometimes I consider if I want to block out the hat pattern – easier to see once knitting begins – or not. And take it from there.
  8. Ending the hat is perhaps the most complicated part of the pattern. Where there are decreases, such as SSK or K2TOG, it can be advantageous to the design to K1B. How to incorporate YO can also be a design challenge!

Beret in Design

So, there we have it – a brief outline on designing a beret as I do it. Pretty soon I hope to have a pattern available . . . and let’s see how well it takes off! I have written out the pattern in a rough manner, and have a test knitter in the person of my wonderful mother-in-law, Judy, and hopefully in my friend Donna will be available for the final draft.

Next task: creating a nice publication for the pattern!