Summer Baking

Plums

Summer fruit, summer dessert.  Berries, nectarines, plums, grapes.  Shortcake, pie, upside down cake, jam and jelly.

Fruit cannot be compromised by ingredients in any way, but flavors must be enhanced.

The focal point is fruit.  Spices, juices, textures, subtle flavors all add to the experience.  Ultimately, simplicity seems to be the best.

The problem is, most desserts are laden with fats, such as butter, and too much sugar.  Where to compromise?  What to make?

Upside down cake!  Simple and easy, and with the right ingredients, neither too sweet, nor loaded with the “wrong” fats.  Solution, then?  An olive oil cake.

Summer Fruit Upside Down Cake

Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease and flour 9 inch circular cake pan.  Fresh seasonal fruit – your choice!  I used red plums, some ripe, some toward the green side – great sweet and sour combination.  You could also do berries, strawberry-rhubarb combo, peaches, nectarines.  In winter, go for apples and pears.  Maybe add some chopped nuts or raisins in winter.

2-3 c. fresh fruit
2 T. white sugar
1 tsp. orange extract (I used Penzey’s)

Mix all of the above together, set aside. Stir occasionally, while creating the cake batter, if you think about it.

1.5 c. white or whole wheat flour
1/3 c. corn meal (yellow or white)
2 T baking powder
1/2 t salt

Mix together in a bowl. Set aside.

2/3 c. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. orange extract
3 large eggs
3/4 c. light brown sugar

Whisk all liquid, eggs, and sugar together till thoroughly blended.

Add 1/3 flour to oil-egg mixture, mixing thoroughly, but do not over mix. Continue adding 1/3 flour to mixture until all flour mixed in.

Spread fruit over bottom of pan. Spread cake batter over fruit. Bake in oven 20 minutes, check, turn pan if necessary. Bake another 20 – 30 minutes until toothpick inserted in cake comes out clean.

Remove baked cake from oven. Run knife around edge of cake in pan. Jiggle pan to loosen fruit at bottom. Place large plate over top of pan and invert. Knock on bottom of cake pan to loosen cake –  I used a wooden spoon.  Remove the pan and scoop anything sticking to the pan back onto the cake – don’t be shy, make sure to taste it, too!

Cool. Serve with whipped cream, creme fraiche, or yogurt.

Upside Down Cake

Karelian Pies

Karelian Pie

Years ago I met a young Finnish woman named Sirkku, and she made what she called Karelian Pies.  I’ve never forgotten them, but never really knew how to make them.  What I do recall is that the filling was a buttery, creamy rice – unlike anything I had ever tasted before – in a rye dough square that had finger prints on the edges, and was turned over, corner to corner, to contain the rice.  I thought they were absolutely delicious.

Mixing Flours and Water

Move ahead to the days of the internet and instant gratification.  I decided to look them up, and came across this recipe for the pies at Tofu for Tea:

Karelian pies (makes 12-14 small pies)
120 g rye flour
30 g plain flour
1/8 tsp salt
120 ml water
190 g white rice (she used sushi rice, I used Arborio)
500 ml milk
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

If you don’t have a scale, try to keep the portions similar for wet / dry ingredients.  Luckily, I do have a scale, and it worked out nicely.  Use Google to get equivalent non-metric measurements.
Choose a good dark rye flour.  Bob’s Red Mill is one I use for all sorts of baking, and it is always really tasty.  Other brands exist – see what is out there.

Rye Flour
Sift together the rye flour, plain flour and salt in a bowl, or use a whisk to blend the flours and salt.  Add the water to the flour by making a small well in the middle, and stir with a spoon as you pour the water into the well.  Dough will be soft and moist (and I think would be great for crackers!).
Mixing Flours and Water
When all is combined, mush the dough together into a ball and transfer to a board dusted with flour.  Roll the dough into a tube, cut in half, and roll out until long and thin.  My final dough looked like two long tubes, each about 14 inches in length, and about an inch in diameter.  Divide into 12-14 pieces.
Tubular!
Sliced and Ready to Roll Out
Making sure you have plenty of flour on your hands and the board, roll the sliced tubes into balls.  As with pie dough, it is really important to work with a lot of flour, and dry hands.  Flatten each ball slightly, and with a floured rolling pin, very gently flatten the balls into oval shapes.  Flip the dough over after 3 or 4 rolls with the pin, and never put more pressure on the edge of the dough with the pin – you want a light touch.  Spread the dough out from the center to the edges until it is about 1/8 inch thick.  Transfer to cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.  If the dough gets smooshed into the board, or sticks to the rolling pin, scrape it off, and roll it into a ball.  Before reworking it into a flattened shape, remove the sticky dough left on the board or the pin, and redust everything with flour.
Rye Dough Balls
Rolled Out Dough
The rice totals about 2 c. dry.  Put into a pan, rinse until clear, and then drain.  Add 1 qt. water (or 1 liter), bring to boil, then drop to low, cover, and cook about 15 minutes.  You will now have a rather watery mix of rice and liquid.  Drain rice and water in a sieve for about 20 minutes.  Return to pan, add milk (about 2 c.) and bring to light boil, drop temperature, cover, and maintain a simmer.
Cooked Rice - First Cooking
Draining Rice
Creamy Rice - Second Cooking with Milk
Check your pot and stove top as milk boils over very easily!  As an aside, this is also an excellent base for stove-top rice pudding, but the crock pot works better because it doesn’t boil over.
Boiled Over!
Boiled-Over Milk
The flattened rye dough doesn’t need to be covered with a damp cloth while the rice cooks.  You might consider cooking the rice and making the rye dough while the rice cooks
Pies Ready to Bake
Once the rice is cooked, stir it up with the grated nutmeg.  You might consider a little butter as well, if you like that richness.  The nutmeg adds a really nice touch to the pies – no idea if it is traditional – and I imagine that, instead of nutmeg, some good, fresh herbs would be nice, such as fresh chervil or savory.  Fill the pies with a nice mound of rice.  You can fill each flattened rye ball, and then do curl the edges of the dough up and around the rice, or do it individually.  Keep your hands dry, so I suggest just dusting them with white flour.  Pinch the dough together around the rice.  When you have made all the pies, left over rice can be added carefully to the pies.

Melt a couple of tablespoons of butter in a dish and stir in a bit of milk.  Brush this over the rice and on the rye dough.

Preheat the oven to 210 C / 400 F.  Bake for about 20 minutes.  I had two racks, so I switched the racks half way between, at the 10 minute mark.  Cool on the pans, or move to wire racks.  When completely cooled, store in a container in the refrigerator.
Cooling Pies on Rack
Notes
It took about 1.5 to 2 hours to make these.  They are rather tasty, and certainly not something most of us eat every day.  I imagine they would be very nice as a side dish, say with fish or a good green salad.  By themselves, they can be a bit bland, but with a good pairing with other foods, would work out very nicely.  Personally, I really like them, and when I want something to do, they could be just the perfect thing to keep my hands out of the devil’s work.

That Crusty RUGBRØD!

Oh, I was exceedingly frustrated by the crusty, crunchy rye bread I made last week.

Rye Bread
Rye Bread

I knew I shouldn’t cut it while warm because, delicious as any bread is fresh out of the oven – which is why rolls are so much better at times! – it ruins the final product if you don’t eat it all up at once.  However, I did not give up, and read more on other sites, and in the end to follow the directions at another site – spray the crust and let the bread dry a bit in the oven, and then, wrap it in plastic overnight.

And there you go – perfectly behaved bread slice with a deliciious flavor, a nice crust, and the ability to support a nice bit of butter and whatever else you wish.

A Pie!

There is nothing in the world of sweets that pleases me more than a fresh pie.  It’s work, and it is seasonal, but pie made with fresh fruit is always my idea of heaven.  So, for the long weekend, the pie is – as many others are making – Strawberry Rhubarb Pie.  This pie needs to be carefully balanced between sweet and sour, so if you are making it from scratch with a whatever-goes mentality, best to taste it before you bake it.  (Isn’t that another reason to bake – to eat raw dough and taste-test the ingredients?)

Method

Preheat oven to 450 F.

Pie Crust
for a 9-inch pan

2 1/2 c. flour
2 sticks (1 lb.) sweet butter, chilled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 tsp. salt
6-8 T. ice water

Pour a cup of water into a vessel; add ice cubes. Do this before you begin the crust.

Cut together flour, butter, and salt until resembles coarse corn meal. Add 3-4 T. water, blend in gently with fork. Add another 2 T. water; blend some more. If it begins to stick together when you mash it together, you are probably ready to roll it out. If not, add another T. of ice water, gradually, testing the dough, which should stick together. Divide dough into two balls, making one slightly larger than the other.

Roll out the larger of the two dough balls onto a floured board, turning as necessary. Roll out until about 4 inches larger than pan diameter. Place dough into pie pan; drape carefully into pan to make sure dough is not stretched. Trim ends to about 1 1/2 inches outside of pan.

Roll out second ball for upper crust. If you want a lattice crust, cut strips about 1 inch wide. On a piece of waxed paper, assemble latticework. Cover with another piece of waxed paper. Refrigerate until ready to place on top of pie. If you want a plain crust, roll out until it measures about 2 inches larger than pan diameter on all sides.

It is not uncommon to have to patch a pie crust, and the lattice is no different.  For the crust, take a trimmed slice of pie dough, dampen it with water on one side, and place it like a tire patch over the part of the crust that needs to be repaired.  That area should also have a few pats of water on it.  Press to seal.  In the area of the lattice, if a strip breaks, or is too short, do not hesitate to repair it as for the bottom crust, but to make it look nice, hide the broken strip under an upper strip.

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie Filling

3 T. brown sugar
1/3 c. white sugar
1/2 c. water
3 c. diced rhubarb stems
2 lbs. fresh strawberries, cleaned and sliced
2-4 T. tapioca
Mace, just a pinch of fresh
Juice of 1 lemon
More white sugar to taste

Combine together two sugars and water in a sautee pan. Bring to simmer until sugars are dissolved. Add chopped rhubarb, and cook slowly for a few minutes. Remove rhubarb from pan, saving syrup and returning to sautee pan, and mix in with fresh strawberries. Sprinkle tapioca into syrup. Simmer tapioca about 5 minutes, letting water evaporate a little bit from pan.  If you like a bit of juice with your pie, use less tapioca, and use more if you like your pie to stick together.  Taste (cool it a bit!) the syrup, and adjust using the juice of the lemon, and adding extra sugar to taste. When you like the taste, pour syrup over strawberry-rhubarb mixture. Sprinkle a bit of mace onto pie. (I like it plain, or with just a hint of mace – not much as the pie itself is so good!)

Pour fruit mixture into pie pan lined with dough. Cover with second crust, cutting slits into crust if you have not made a lattice; this allows steam to escape. Brush top crust with a egg yolk-water mixture, or an egg white-water mixture, or leave plain.

Bake the Pie!

Make sure oven racks are placed with one on bottom rack, and another in middle of oven. Line a cookie sheet with foil and place on bottom rack. Place pie on middle rack. Bake at 450 F for 10 minutes and then lower temperature to 350 F, and bake another 50-60 minutes until juices are bubbling and crust is golden.  Cool on wire rack, or let cool in oven if really drippy.

When you are ready to remove the pie from the oven, get another pair of hands.  My husband carried the pie, and I followed underneath, with a wire rack crossing the foil-covered cookie sheet, to prevent goo from getting on the floor.

Serve with cream, ice cream, or just pie itself.