Hmmmm

It’s been a bit of time since my last post.  I’ve been caught up in launching my students into the clinical world – like kids off to college or moving out – there is a bit of the empty nest.  Simultaneously, there is room now to organize things and do things which have been put off.  And to apply for jobs as who knows what will happen on the 15th.  I’ve also passed the CBEST, with 204 out of 240 total points possible – about an 85% average, I guess.  So, things can be added to the old credential.  Back up plan taking shape.

Meanwhile, I have been looking at all my projects, and the fact is, I’m in a very scattered mood.  Inventory of WIPs and UFOs shows the following:

      • Gloves, unfinished
      • Top-down beret, in revision and slow progress
      • Simple Cardigan, 1/2 sleeve remaining
      • Socks – too many to mention
      • A few other hats
      • Gansey – just started for the Esposo

And this Saturday, I finally get to go to the first Chinese painting class in probably five months.  As this is the Year of the Tiger, Teacher will demonstrate this painting.

And I still have some palm trees to consider.

A Good Day to Dye

The weather turned this weekend from cold and windy to warm and sunny, with all the elements of spring making themselves known:  the mockingbirds in the trees, the frisky squirrels, daffodils and freesias blooming.  Thus, for a few days, the cabled beret was tossed out the window (figuratively, not literally), while the dye pots and colors and yarn came out to play.

A couple of weeks ago I sent away to Wool2Dye4, and ordered two skeins of their 100% washable merino sock yarn, their 80/20 merino bamboo combo sock yarn, and a one-pound cone of their Blue-Faced Leicester.  I also had some sock blanks from KnitPicks that have been waiting many months to turn into butterflies.  My MIL’s birthday is on the Ides of March, so this yarn and dyeing is something we do occasionally as a birthdye present for her (and for me, though I’m 7 months from now . . .).

Anyway, it was a blast!  First thing we did was to paint up our sock blanks.  We used powdered dye mixed with water – I’ll detail that in another post – and plastic syringes to place the colors.  Judy’s sock blank is below.

Judy's Sock Blank - Before Steaming

This is my sock blank.

My Sock Blank - Before Steaming

We did this out on the picnic table, on top of a plastic tarp.  Before dyeing the blanks, two long sheets of plastic wrap were stretched out beneath where each blank would go, and pressed down to make a seal.  The blanks were soaked in warm water with a tablespoon of dish soap (Dawn) for about 30 minutes.  We set up the dyeing table and colors while the blanks soaked.

Once we had our blanks painted, into the kettle they went!  We rolled the blanks up in the plastic wrap, folding over the edges and such to seal in the colors, with a final sheet of plastic wrap, like a burrito.  The kettle was set up with a vegetable steamer and plastic tray, and the blanks steamed for about an hour.  Once they were done, we pulled them out and, as quickly as possible, freed them from their coverings and set them in a basin of warm water mixed with about 4 oz. of white vinegar.  There they cooled, and while they were cooling, we got on to more dyeing!

Our “cooked” sock blanks now looked like this:

Judy's Sock Blank - After Steaming
My Sock Blank - After Steaming

One would hope that the abstract patterns would come out like the blank, but already I know they won’t.  I’ve started knitting up my socks, or gloves, or whatever they are going to be.  The colors are intensely rich, and the photos really do not show what they look like.  Judy’s will more likely show its pattern – the blanks are always described as “make your own striped socks” – so it makes sense.  Still, it is fun to knit them up to see!

The next dyeing adventure was to spread out a skein of yarn each, already soaked, and pour colors onto the skein.  We’ve done this before, and often the patterns of the colors are really enjoyable.  Judy made used multiple colors in hers, and I decided to go for a more monochrome pattern.  You can see the results to the side – the turquoise skein is mine, and the multicolored one is hers.

The results of this are really satisfying as you can create strips or areas of color and work the color into the yarn. Judy’s painted skein is very obvious in its sections of color, but where the colors overlap can become very exciting. Mine is more subtle, which is odd for me, and for once the magpie did not overtake the entire project. I really like the turquoises and blues which were the result of mushing together a few shades of blue and turquoise.  Wrapping the skeins in plastic wrap and steaming them allows for the different projects to go into the same pot without polluting each other.

The final project was to create flammegarn. This is a resist method used in Scandinavia to create randomly bicolored yarn.  White or colored wool is tied off with yarn, in sections, and the yarn is immersed into color.  The result is randomly colored and white yarn, much like our multi-colored yarns of today, but with fewer colors and shorter areas of color.  The results are always fascinating.

Judy Holding the Tied Flammegarn Skeins

We decided to use the same colors, and to utilize our knowledge of color mixing to get some results.  We dyed our entire skeins a rather lime yellow greenish color.  Once we could handle the yarn out of the dye pot, we tied ours off.  Judy is holding up the dyed, still tied, skeins.

And then you can see her holding up the now untied skeins.  Hers is on the left, and mine is on the right.

She liked her colors, but for me, the colors did absolutely nothing.  Yucko!  Just not for me.  So, I decided to overdye my flammegarn skein, and I am so glad I did.

Judy with Untied Flammegarn Skeins

I decided to continue to apply color theory to the flammegarn. The yarn was a rather yellow-green and blue-green. I could overdye the yarn with a turquoise, but then I would have two similarly colored skeins. I decided to use violet. The yellow would turn to a grey color (yellow and violet being complementary colors), and the blue would turn to a blue violet. Into an intensely purple dye pot it went!

You can see from the results, the overdye was perfect. No more putrid yellow and blue green. The overall effect of the skein is a rather purplish blueberry color – more violet than blue – and really nicely mottled. Up close, with some photoshop lightening of the picture, you can see the colors a bit more distinctly.

The long, thin picture of the skein is close to the real color, and in daylight it has that deep purply blue color.  The larger picture on the left shows you the detail of the color, which, when knitted up, should add a bit of interest to the yarn itself.

Altogether, this was an incredibly satisfying day! The random effects of dyeing are half the fun – just experimenting and playing. You can see that Judy has an eye for detail and construction. Her colors are more orderly than mine, and I tell you, I really admire that in people. She is, for example, and incredibly talented beader and needlepointer, with the patience of a saint. Her work is impeccable. Me, I am far more crazy and like the process of making a mess. Too often, a mess is just the result. However, I was really pleased with the way everything turned out, for both of us, and I know we had a lot of fun together. With spring approaching (here in California), the plants are beginning to grow, and we plan on a natural dyeing adventure pretty soon, with native plants, as well as materials from other parts of the world. Stay tuned!

Basic Beret: Creating a Top-Down Beret, iv

Decisions Made!

I thought about this beret a bit, and did a little research on shapes of berets and tams, and decided that I could continue on straight along on 240 stitches.  I also transferred the stitches to a longer needle – I think it is a 36″ one – forgot to measure it before transferring the stitches – and the hat fits very nicely on it.  The plan is to continue until there are at least 7 pattern repeats – about 35 rounds – before considering decreasing toward the brim.  This choice will be dependent on the diameter of the hat at this point, or the distance of the radius, which would be measured from the base of the tab.

Truth Time

And now for a confession:  I am using size 6 needles!  Not 8s like I originally posted.

Final Rounds Before Decreasing

This is the pattern I plan to follow, beginning with the last increase round, which is rnd 19.

Rnd 18: *k2, p2* to end 192
Rnd 19: *k1,  yo, k1, p2* to end 240
Rnd 20: *k3, p2* to end 240
Rnd 21: *K3, p2* to end 240
Rnd 22: *MCCO,  m1 purlwise, p2* to end

Note:  This is to keep the stitch count the same.  If you did *MCCO, p2* to the end, the result would be 192 stitches.


240
Rnd 23: *k2, p3* to end 240
Rnd 24: *k1,  yo, k1, p1, p2 tog* to end

Note: The p2tog is at the end of the purl section, in the idea that it will balance out the decreases 2 rnds previous


240
Rnd 25: *k3, p2* to end 240
Rnd 26: *k3, p2* to end 240
Rnd 27: *MCCO,  m1 purlwise, p2* to end 240

From this point on, rnds 23 through 27 will be repeated.

Purlwise Increases

From the point I began doing the purlwise increases, I have stayed with the purl increases being done in the stitch below.  How I approach this increase depends on whether the stitch on the left needle is a purl or knit stitch.

To do them, on a purl stitch, I just stick the needle into the front “pearl” under the live stitch.  The needle looks like you are ready to knit.  Take the left hand needle and tuck it into the front of the stitch on the right needle, and remove the right hand needle.  The stitch is now twisted properly.  Purl it like you would a normal purl stitch.

The ones done next to knit stitches I go in from the back into the loop on the right side of the knit stitch with the right needle, and lift the stitch directly onto the left needle with the right.  The right hand needle should be in the purl position.  Purl the stitch.  If your next stitch is a purl, continue on; if the next stitch is a knit, bring yarn to back of needle, and knit the next stitch.

Doing your purl increases prevents holes from magically appearing in your work.

Basic Beret: Creating a Top-Down Beret, iii

A Few Thoughts

I’ve now reached round 19 of the beret, and when I do the yo increases for the pattern, I will end up with 240 stitches on the needles.  Ouch!  That seems like a lot of stitches for a beret that is only 6 inches in diameter at this point.  Will it even fit on the 16″ circulars?  Each cable repeat, from MCCO to MCCO is a smidgen more than 3/4 inch.  All these are being considered as I begin the next round of patterns with their increases.

A specific design element I am thinking about is that the beginnings of new cables may be best started with an MCCO – it creates a visual beginning for the pattern.  I wouldn’t do it at the base of the tab because I don’t think it would look good.  Maybe it would . . . I could try it out!

Another thing which has cropped up is that there are holes where I have done purl increases.  PFB is not really tidy, and the picking up the bar between stitches to make an increase seems to leave the holes.  I decided from about row 15 to try using the stitch directly below the next stitch to create the purlwise increase, and it seems to be working.  Until the beret is off the needles and blocked, I doubt I can really assess the pluses or minuses of any of these increase methods.  So far, though, the purlwise increase through the stitch below the next looks the best.

Beret at Rnd 19 - 192 Stitches

Decision Time

Do I keep on increasing as I have been?  One of my favorite berets is about 10 inches in diameter before it begins decreasing toward the brim, and has a 36 inch circumference at its widest.  If each mock cable is about .75 inches, to make a 5 inch radius would need 6 2/3 repeats – really, 7 cables.  If I do the math, the number of stitches is astronomical.

Some increases need to be done, otherwise a tube shape will begin to develop.  Maybe I increased to rapidly – the only way to judge would be to remove all the stitches onto a line.

Hmmm . . . .

I’m going to do one more cable repeat, and take it from there.  And look for a 24 inch circular needle as well!