First Practice in Sashiko

Awhile ago I decided to try my hand at sashiko, a traditional Japanese embroidery used for both practical and artistic reasons. Originally it was used to quilt layers of cloth together, old clothes to make new ones. Patches were pieced onto already patched clothing. Today it is hard to imagine that clothing had to last generations, but this art form was for practical reasons. The artistry of it – the creation of patterns – shows the fact that, despite hardship and poverty, the need to express and create, to add beauty to the world, exists at many levels.

Today, we don’t patch clothes like that, to make them last for ages. We don’t need to for the most part. Instead, we call it “visible mending” and use it to enhance our clothes or show off our skills. It is a tradition that is now becoming a fabric art, much as quilting. However, these stitches are made by hand (although Babylock does have a machine which mimics hand sewn sashiko) and add character to jeans or old denim, or are used as a way to enhance something, such a purse or towel or whatever.

I bought sashiko thread, needles, a palm thimble specific for sashiko, and from there watched a few videos. I have some denim that I am cutting up to practice on. My stitches are uneven and I am trying to find a rhythm first in creating a running stitch. It is far harder than you think. So, first, the rhythm and comfort with the stitches.

Above is my first attempt. I just drew straight lines by hand, but later got out my pica stick and used it. Loops are left so that the fabric does not pucker as the rows are stitched, and as each row is done, I attempted to straighten and flatten out the fabric – a running stitch is great for gathering!

Above is my second attempt. More running stitches, but I tried different ways to begin and end rows. The loops prove to be important is not getting puckers – I got rid of a few with a hot iron, but you can see at the bottom a pucker across the left side.

Securing stitches is important. I tried different ways – many involve stitching over other stitches. I am still exploring that element – I want to figure things out on my own!

Above is the reverse of each of these samplers. The one on the left is the first; the one on the right is the second. The second one is neater as i carefully used a Chaco chalk pen to mark lines as I moved along.

Currently I intend to stick to straight lines and figure out how to connect them in different ways to make patterns. Tradition holds many patterns to be explored – many straight, geometric, circular, a combination of both, and many can become pictorial if you desire. Not all are done in a running stitch is my guess as I have seen some designs with completely solid lines of thread – backstitch or a running stitch then redone in between and in the reverse direction with another running stitch?

Mysteries to be explored!

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Jacket 3

This pattern dates from somewhere in mid-nineties. Original intent was a birthday present for a friend, but, like many things, got set aside because of other distractions. Now, resurrected, it surely does not appeal to me, but I am determined to finish it, even if I never wear it and just give it to a local thrift store. The experience, at this point, is the point.

Additionally, this is the very first project I ever used with my serger.  And it was the last, until, like this jacket, I resurrected my serger.  Can you believe at least 15 years have gone by for both of these??  I admit, the serger just scared the hell out of me – so fast, so complicated – but with my renewed interest in sewing, I decided that the serger was going to come out of oblivion.

Elna 2

This serger was one of the top of the line during the 1990s. It is an Elna Pro 5 DC, is a 5-thread machine, and has a really cute and convenient LCD display that one can program to put in settings for each of the many stitches it does. Unfortunately, there seems to be a bit of a problem with it because it beeps at me, and the red lights turn on and off. For now, though, I am going to use it until the jacket is finished, and then bring it in for a check up at Art & Jenny’s. I have it set up for 3-thread overlock, and for now, that is where it is going to remain. I’ve had the fun experience, already, of cutting through part of the upper left sleeve while finishing the side seams, so it got patched with some fusible interfacing and a mending stitch. Experience is the best teacher!

Jacket 2

Besides not being a talented serger-ess, I also seem to have not bought enough material to provide a facing for the yoke of the jacket. I will have to wander over to Joann’s later today and find something along the same weight, and maybe color, as the turquoise poplin. And, my threads don’t match the original I used back in the 90s . . . Gosh, life sure is tough!

Jacket 1