I haven’t quite finished the socks, but thought I would create a rough pattern for those who might like to have it. It is just too hot to knit wool socks, and as it is also summer, the urge to be outdoors and wandering around is far more attractive than sitting still.
I think that, overall, the socks are rather pretty. Will I become a toe-up convert? Not sure.
Given that, you may find it in the Patterns section of this blog! Or, just click here.
This past week I really have not done much of anything except munge around. The highlights of the week have been watching the very funny Betty la Fea – in English, and the American version – on DVDs from Netflix. What is there not to enjoy?
The second of the toe-up socks have been progressing over the past week. I’ve turned the heel using the Fleegle Heel, which is the reverse of a top-down sock gusset, but without the need to pick up stitches along the heel flap. The body of the sock measured 7 inches when I started the heel. Most toe-up recipes with gussets say to begin it 2 to 2.5 inches before the total length. I make my socks 9 inches long, so 6.5 to 7 inches would be fine – in theory!
Having turned the heel, before trying it on, just an eyeball of the sock told me that 7 inches was too long of a sock length. It should have begun at 6.5 inches, or maybe even 6. Another element of the heel was its angle, especially when compared to the short-row heel of the first sock. Additionally, I usually turn my sock heel on about a third of the total stitches, not the traditional one half. My gusset is a lot shorter as a result, and I am pleased with the way my top-down socks fit.
Still, the fit of this second sock, is not bad. The problem, in my opinion, is the tediousness of turning the heel. It was a lot easier to do, in some ways, than the short-row heel, but that is because the construction of the heel is one with which I am familiar. The heel flap construction of a top-down sock requires picking up stitches, but the Fleegle heel does not, so the overall product is a bit tidier, though longer in doing.
I may attempt to do this heel, if I do another toe-up pair of socks, on fewer stitches. It will be interesting to note at what point along the foot to begin a Fleegle heel with fewer stitches – I think the length of the sock may need to be a bit longer than when you use half of the total sock stitches. I also think I saw a reference to a Dutch heel for toe-up socks, which is not as fitted as this particular heel. Hmmm.
This second sock of this pair is made with only 54 stitches, not 60. The reason is that I don’t really think that 60 is good for the lace pattern here. The lace is stretchy, and doesn’t stretch out on my foot or leg. I’d make that for a large leg, and use 42-48 for a young girl or small woman.
Here, you can see the difference between the two socks, especially at the heel. The short-row heel sock is a bit too short, and the Fleegle heel sock is a bit too long. Still, I have no plans of ripping out either sock, and will wear them as a pair!
My inclination is to go with a Fleegle heel as preferred method, but use maybe a third of the stitches, instead of half. Also, fewer stitches for this lace pattern. The fact that knitting is stretchy allows for errors like this, and I can wear them before I decide I don’t like toe-up socks. Right now, I’m just now sure I like making them….
I’ve finished the first sock of this pair, and I can only say I am not too fond of it, as far as doing it, and as far its design. This being the first sock, and fraught with a high learning curve, it is understandable.
After turning the heel, I continued on with lace rib stitch for 6 inches, and then began the top pattern, which is a repeat of 7 stitches. To recap, the sock is a 6-stitch repeat, done on 60 stitches. I decided to increase 3 stitches, every 20th round. Then I began the pattern, which I will modify, and attach to posts about the second sock, which 1) should be nicer looking, and 2) have a gusset rather than short row heel, and 3) have a decrease of stitches (maybe) for the top border. Just so you know, the bind off is stretchy, done as k2, slip 2 stitches back to left needle, k2tog, k1, slip 2 stitches back to left needle, and continue until done. It was a nuisance to do, but the edge worked out rather nicely.
The top of the sock, as you can see, flairs out a bit. As this was the calf area, I figured it would be better to make it the 3 stitches bigger rather than 4 stitches smaller. Maybe I’ll change my mind on that, seeing how it doesn’t have any ribbing on the top. On my leg it looks like it will slide down toward my ankle, which is fine if I want a baggy sock around my ankle, but with this design, I don’t think so.
As far as the overall design of the sock, I’m not displeased, but not happy either. The vertical lines of the ankle and foot are in a nice contrast to the horizontal quality at the top.
At this point, I admit that I am still not sold on toe-up socks. This being my first one, I know I am far from any point of making a definitive statement. There is a lot more still to learn, and certainly I am doing that! And, that was the goal in the first place.
A Request
If you have any sock patterns that you think are just the BEST toe-up sock pattern, leave me a note and a link if there is one. Or email on Ravelry. I’d love to see other socks, and though I do have books on the subjects, the subject is far more vast than I first realized.
Moving along here. I’m not so sure about this sock, but I shall persevere. Ever onward! After all, this is Toe-Up Sock #1. Let us honor it, rather than destroy it. I shall plod to the end of my perceived design, but rather than bind off permanently, allow myself the option of ripping – after the mate is begun. Here is evidence of my hard work, done while watching Season 1, Discs 8 and 9, of The Man from U.N.C.L.E.
The toe fits rather nicely. You can see how the poor yarn has been thrashed by being ripped out and knitted up about five times. It fits comfortably. The lace pattern is a stretchy lace rib, which I figure should give some shape to the sock if I don’t like the heel – and some give it is tight. I have a very high arch, so went this route deliberately. Some texts and websites state that the short-row heel may not be the best for my kind of foot. Looking at the sock in profile, I rather agree. Still, it is comfortable on the foot, but perhaps the real test will be if I wear it with shoes.
Here is the sock, sans foot. The heel is very pointy! You can see it in the shadow of the picture above, and in the one below.
I turned the heel, using a short-row technique, no gussets, and with help from the following video, which was extraordinarily clear:
Leave me a comment and let me know what you think! I’d love to hear from you.
I will say, the Kroy sock yarn I’ve been knitting and frogging, knitting and frogging, has held up great! It is some I’ve had in my stash for ages, and was made in Canada.
In my last post, I showed you a picture of a toe I’d started. It did not last long. I ripped it out and began again when I realized I had totally messed up on the design of the sock pattern. I miscalculated my stitches, and ripped back partially, but the poor yarn was so frazzled I finally just raveled the entire sock toe. And began again. This time I got it.
Here is the beginning of the pattern, if you would like to follow along. If I like it enough, I will write up the pattern and post it.
WIP: Toe Up Sock #1
Using Turkish cast-on, cast on 8 stitches. Work 2 rounds on 2 needles (see videos mentioned in other post for more details).
Round 3, on needle 1: k1, kfb, k2, place marker, knit to second-to-last stitch and in it kfb, k1. Total of 10 stitches. On needle 2: k1, kfb, k2 more stitches. Total of 5 stitches. You now will have 3 needles. Get new needle, and continue on: k2, kfb, k1. Total of 20 stitches spread over 3 needles, 5 on needle 1 (heel needle), 10 on needle 2 (instep), and 5 on needle 3 (heel).
Note: Placing the marker will be in the center of the instep needle is a great way to reference the number stitches – the instep needle should have twice as many stitches as each heel needle, with the marker making in the center being an easy way to make sure you are on track.
If you want to use 4 needles, divide stitches evenly over needles.
Round 4: Knit
Round 5: at the end of needle one, closest to the instep needle, you will begin your toe increases by kfb in the second to last stitch. Needle 1: k3, kfb, k1. Needle 2: k1, kfb, k to second-to-last stitch and kfb in that stitch, k1. Needle 3: k1, kfb, k to end of needle. 6 stitches on each heel needle, 12 stitches on instep.
Round 6: knit.
Round 7: Increase as for round 5.
Repeat rounds 6 and 7 until you have 14 stitches on each heel needle, and 28 stitches across instep. Total of stitches is 56.
Next round: knit
Next round: k 14 on needle 1; increase as before on instep needle, k 14 on needle 3. Total of stitches: 14 on heel needles, 30 stitches on instep.
Next round: knit.
Next round: k 14 on needle 1, increase as before on instep needle, k 14 on needle 3. Total of stitches: 14 on heel needles, 32 stitches on instep needle.
Next round: knit
Next round: Begin pattern on instep needle, ending k2. Place markers to divide each pattern repeat. There will be 5 pattern repeats. Thusly, K 14 on needle 1; follow Chart A being sure to end k2 on needle 2 (32 st); k 14 on heel needle 3. Continue in pattern.
And that is all for now!
I’ve just begun, but plan on stopping about 3 inches short of my usual foot length for socks, which is 9 inches. I plan on knitting 6 inches from the cast on toe. Let’s see what happens!
Reasons for Toe-Up Socks
The usual preferences given for toe-up socks are being able to try on the sock while knitting, and to be able to use the yarn to the last bit. Let’s add to this to the list: it’s a great place to hide mistakes if you don’t want to rip!
Ink, Yarn & Beer 