knitting design – Page 2 – Ink, Yarn & Beer

A Foray into Toe-Up Socks, v

This past week I really have not done much of anything except munge around. The highlights of the week have been watching the very funny Betty la Fea – in English, and the American version – on DVDs from Netflix. What is there not to enjoy?

The second of the toe-up socks have been progressing over the past week. I’ve turned the heel using the Fleegle Heel, which is the reverse of a top-down sock gusset, but without the need to pick up stitches along the heel flap. The body of the sock measured 7 inches when I started the heel. Most toe-up recipes with gussets say to begin it 2 to 2.5 inches before the total length. I make my socks 9 inches long, so 6.5 to 7 inches would be fine – in theory!

Having turned the heel, before trying it on, just an eyeball of the sock told me that 7 inches was too long of a sock length. It should have begun at 6.5 inches, or maybe even 6. Another element of the heel was its angle, especially when compared to the short-row heel of the first sock. Additionally, I usually turn my sock heel on about a third of the total stitches, not the traditional one half. My gusset is a lot shorter as a result, and I am pleased with the way my top-down socks fit.

Still, the fit of this second sock, is not bad. The problem, in my opinion, is the tediousness of turning the heel. It was a lot easier to do, in some ways, than the short-row heel, but that is because the construction of the heel is one with which I am familiar. The heel flap construction of a top-down sock requires picking up stitches, but the Fleegle heel does not, so the overall product is a bit tidier, though longer in doing.

I may attempt to do this heel, if I do another toe-up pair of socks, on fewer stitches. It will be interesting to note at what point along the foot to begin a Fleegle heel with fewer stitches – I think the length of the sock may need to be a bit longer than when you use half of the total sock stitches. I also think I saw a reference to a Dutch heel for toe-up socks, which is not as fitted as this particular heel. Hmmm.

This second sock of this pair is made with only 54 stitches, not 60. The reason is that I don’t really think that 60 is good for the lace pattern here. The lace is stretchy, and doesn’t stretch out on my foot or leg. I’d make that for a large leg, and use 42-48 for a young girl or small woman.

Here, you can see the difference between the two socks, especially at the heel. The short-row heel sock is a bit too short, and the Fleegle heel sock is a bit too long. Still, I have no plans of ripping out either sock, and will wear them as a pair!

My inclination is to go with a Fleegle heel as preferred method, but use maybe a third of the stitches, instead of half. Also, fewer stitches for this lace pattern. The fact that knitting is stretchy allows for errors like this, and I can wear them before I decide I don’t like toe-up socks. Right now, I’m just now sure I like making them….

A Foray into Toe-Up Socks, iv

I’ve finished the first sock of this pair, and I can only say I am not too fond of it, as far as doing it, and as far its design. This being the first sock, and fraught with a high learning curve, it is understandable.

After turning the heel, I continued on with lace rib stitch for 6 inches, and then began the top pattern, which is a repeat of 7 stitches. To recap, the sock is a 6-stitch repeat, done on 60 stitches. I decided to increase 3 stitches, every 20th round. Then I began the pattern, which I will modify, and attach to posts about the second sock, which 1) should be nicer looking, and 2) have a gusset rather than short row heel, and 3) have a decrease of stitches (maybe) for the top border. Just so you know, the bind off is stretchy, done as k2, slip 2 stitches back to left needle, k2tog, k1, slip 2 stitches back to left needle, and continue until done. It was a nuisance to do, but the edge worked out rather nicely.

The top of the sock, as you can see, flairs out a bit. As this was the calf area, I figured it would be better to make it the 3 stitches bigger rather than 4 stitches smaller. Maybe I’ll change my mind on that, seeing how it doesn’t have any ribbing on the top. On my leg it looks like it will slide down toward my ankle, which is fine if I want a baggy sock around my ankle, but with this design, I don’t think so.

As far as the overall design of the sock, I’m not displeased, but not happy either. The vertical lines of the ankle and foot are in a nice contrast to the horizontal quality at the top.

At this point, I admit that I am still not sold on toe-up socks. This being my first one, I know I am far from any point of making a definitive statement. There is a lot more still to learn, and certainly I am doing that! And, that was the goal in the first place.

A Request

If you have any sock patterns that you think are just the BEST toe-up sock pattern, leave me a note and a link if there is one. Or email on Ravelry. I’d love to see other socks, and though I do have books on the subjects, the subject is far more vast than I first realized.

Yarns of the City – 30 May 2009

Eva’s Needlework, Thousand Oaks, CA

People of talent are found everywhere. In particular, I like Eva Wiechmann of Eva’s Needlework. She’s a creative designer, having a number of books out. She has a series of books out called Pursenalities – lots of purse patterns, knitted, crocheted, and felted. Her newest one is called Simple Stitches, which contains sweaters and tops. You can purchase these books at her online store.

If you are in passing through Thousand Oaks, check out her store. It’s the kind of yarn store I enjoy – jammed with stuff. She has an excellent selection of pattern books (in addition to her own). Samples from her books are on display, too, which gives the knitter a chance to see what they really look like.

Knitting Offenses

The other day, I was over at the local bookstore, and decided to grab a few knitting magazines to peruse with my coffee. I saw some great designs in texture combined with lousy garment construction and finishing techniques. The biggest offenders are the shoulders, sleeves, bodies, and necklines.

Garment Design. As an example, not too long ago, I bought a pattern booklet from a famous yarn maker. The cover hat and glove set caught my eye. I bought it, without reading it. When I read it, I was stunned. The hat pattern – the same as for the back of the glove – was knitted back and forth on two needles, and then seamed! The gloves were knitted on four needles, in the round.

Huh?? Am I missing something here?

Necklines. I always look at the construction of the neckline, and I read the pattern. Is there sewing to be done? Is it knitted and attached as you go along, or done separately and then sewn on? Is the neckline shaping capable of supporting the rest of the sweater body? How does that V-neck or scoop neck look? Too low? Too high? Do the edges of the neckline have a finished look, or do they look sloppy and stretched out? Is it flattering? Does it make the sweater fall off the shoulder?

Badly Designed Sleeves. Under this heading, you can find poorly sewn sleeves, at the shoulder and into the armpit, and along the length of the arm. First question: Who did the finishing? Next question: Why would you design a sweater with sleeve seams?

In one of the magazines I looked at, it was pretty obvious that the person who pieced together the sweater could not do the job. The sleeve seam was messy and ragged. The knitted pattern did not add to the offense; some stitches make it difficult to knit a “sewable” edge, but the designer can eliminate this problem if they must have sleeve seams.

Another picture in the same magazine showed inset sleeves with the same crappy finishing. Puckers, uneven sewing. This destroyed the sweater. Here, the knitting designer was at fault to a degree because the pattern stitches used did not make the sewing-up easy.

Finally, photography. A lot of magazines show evidence of pinning and pulling to make an item “fit” the model. Here is when design flaws can really show up, as well as poor finishing techniques. Thank the photographer for this! It may make you re-think doing that pattern.

Body. This has been written up by some rather famous people. Elizabeth Zimmermann said it all. She documented this issue quite well when she sold her seamless Fair Isle sweater pattern to a famous magazine. Said magazine rewrote the pattern to have side seams, shoulder seams, and sewn-in sleeves, even though it was pretty obvious in the picture that there were no seams at all – or that the seamstress was superb!

Poorly designed sweaters can result in sweaters which can never be sewn together well, no matter the talent. I have some ski sweater designs from the 40s and 50s. The raglan sleeves are sewn in, and the patterns – snowflakes, elk, stars – are placed in the middle of the raglan seam. Not nicely sewn in the photos, and not worth doing, unless it is in the round.

What to do? Well…what can you do? If you really like something, is it something you can do? Do you have the skill, creativity, know-how to fix problems? Do you want to take the time to do it? Do you want to learn to do it?

If you answer yes, then have at it. If you answer no, then look for another pattern! You know your own personality, so why make yourself crazy and frustrated to the point of misery?

IMHO. I am a frump and a snob. I don’t wear trendy clothing, and I don’t make fashionable designs. I like well-tailored, comfortable clothing. I like good shoes. I like good materials and craftsmanship.

When it comes to knitting anything, I really appreciate good construction design, good finishing, and elegance. Most of this can be done with a minimal of sewing.

Designing a Pattern: Berets

I’ve been making hats and socks for what seems forever – certainly since high school and college. Both are rather formulaic. Socks are easy enough – if you know how to make socks, you no doubt have your formula, and adapt based on weight of yarn, design elements, and for whom it is being made. Hats are the same – toques, watch caps, berets – all have basic principles, and you move on from there. However, there is a big difference in trying to write down a pattern for someone else to use!

Basic Beret Formula

This is my basic formula for a beret-style hat, and from it have sprung many.

Measure head of intended recipient (if possible). If not possible, I use 18-20 inches for an adult woman, average size (meaning me!).
Figure out the general gauge of yarn in stockinette.
Multiply stitches per inch of yarn, and multiply that number. Example: 6 stitches per inch for a 19 inch head results in 114 stitches.
Determine the ribbing or bottom edging of the hat. If ribbing, I usually will decrease my total cast on so that the hat will be snug, and the stretch of the ribbing will allow for comfort at the same time. If the bottom border of the hat is not in ribbing, I still decrease a bit, but not as much perhaps. A decrease of 1 to 2 inches is normal.
What is the pattern going to consist of after the ribbing or lower edge is completed? If the design has definite elements of obvious knit and purl, I try to work the ribbing into the first row of the pattern, to allow for a smooth transition between the two.
Berets require some expansion from ribbing to the pattern, and this also means increasing stitches. I usually like to increase the number of stitches anywhere from a third more, to doubling, depending on how the pattern knits up. This can be done by increasing stitches in the ribbing or band, as well as moving from smaller to larger needles.
Finally, I knit the hat. As I knit, the hat sort of creates itself, even if I have an idea in mind. Sometimes a hat starts out as slouchy and loose, but the pattern may change that. Or vice versa. Sometimes I consider if I want to block out the hat pattern – easier to see once knitting begins – or not. And take it from there.
Ending the hat is perhaps the most complicated part of the pattern. Where there are decreases, such as SSK or K2TOG, it can be advantageous to the design to K1B. How to incorporate YO can also be a design challenge!

Beret in Design

So, there we have it – a brief outline on designing a beret as I do it. Pretty soon I hope to have a pattern available . . . and let’s see how well it takes off! I have written out the pattern in a rough manner, and have a test knitter in the person of my wonderful mother-in-law, Judy, and hopefully in my friend Donna will be available for the final draft.

Next task: creating a nice publication for the pattern!