In Search of the “Perfect” Buttonhole, Part I

I don’t know about you, but sewing a good-looking buttonhole, without a mistake, seems to be a nearly impossible task.  There are attachments for machines.  Some machines have 4-to-6 step built-in buttonholes.  Sew a buttonhole by hand?  Hmmm.  I’ve been tempted and then reconsider:  it’s not worth the stress (even though there are some great YouTube tutorials I have watched!).

In each of these, something can go wrong.  A perfect buttonhole can be destroyed with a slip of the seam ripper when making the final slash.  Birds nests of thread can collect under what looks like a beauty of a buttonhole.  Stitches can be skipped.

I have a small (compared to some people) collection of sewing machines, ranging from a treadle with a long bobbin (The Free #5), two old Singer handcranks (a back-clamping Lotus 66 and a 99), a Featherweight 222K, a Necchi hiding out in the garage in a horrid French Provincial table), some Kenmores (158.1030, 158.1400, 158 904, 158.19802), a Bernina or two (801S and 930), a Janome 6500, and a Pfaff Passport 3.0 (which I may trade in as it seems to have a few too many quirks).  I also have a Viking 19e, fixed at long last, which was my mother’s machine, and the one I used throughout my school years.  I also have attachments for the treadle, Singers, Kenmores, Berninas, and Janome – anything to make life easier.  Or purportedly easier.  Buttonhole attachments are included in the mix.  And as adjuncts, a coverstitch machine and a serger.

Not all attachments fit all machines.  Most are proprietary.  For instance, did you know that Singers of yore come with rounded corners and Kenmores are squared?  Round pegs – or rounded corners – do not fit in square holes – or squared holes.  And in reverse.  Thus, Singer attachments are not likely to work on a Kenmore, and Kenmores might not work on a Singer or a Bernina – but they might.

For awhile, Singer made slant-needle machines, and must have slant-needle attachments.  Kenmore machines range from low-shank, to high-shank, to super-high-shank.  These might require specific buttonhole attachments or shank adapters.

Let’s not talk about Kenmore buttonholers of some variety – many are proprietary to given machine models, and are not clearly identified.  Did you ever look at all the models than Kenmore made?  Maybe even more models than Singer.

I have 4 Singer buttonholers (gotten cheap off eBay – some for a couple of bucks) and a generic, low-shank one I bought 20 years ago at a local sewing machine store.  That last buttonholer is the easiest to use of all of them, but the old Singers are a lot of fun and do a pretty good job.

A good or great buttonhole attachment or machine function is a gift from the gods.  Imagine making clothes at home on a straight-stitch machine in a few hours – or several – and then spending the same amount of time (I would think) sewing in 12 buttonholes on a shirt or a blouse or a dress. Even if funky and weird, a buttonholer is up there with a washing machine and a paperclip and a safety pin as far as being this side of miraculous.

Whoever invented the automated buttonholer, thank you, thank you, thank you!

Stay tuned for Part II!

A Bag for the Lady

Machine Inside!

I got a new-to-me sewing machine the other day, a Kenmore 158.19802, but that is a story for another day.  However, it needed to be used, and I needed something fun to do that wouldn’t make me nuts.  My sewing student likes to make stuff, like pillow cases and stuffed felt tomatoes, and me, I have never done anything with my sewing except make clothes.  Because her thinking patterns aren’t mine, I decided to think outside of my box, and looked for something free, and useful.  Voila!  The Pleated Tote by Artsy Crafty Babe.

Pleated Tote Pattern

This is a free pattern, and it is really well-designed.  It looks good, has great directions, and with sale material, didn’t cost me more than $10.00 and some time.  And, I got to see how the new-to-me-machine works (very nicely!).  The pattern is all in the PDF file, ready to be cut out!

Pattern Piece

What I did differently from the original pattern is to double the length of the straps – I like long ones, so I can wear the bag diagonally if necessary, or knot up the straps if I want shorter handles.

Interfaced Lining and Body

A few other things I did was to interface the material and the lining with fusible lightweight pellon, clip the corners and curves, and made sure the darts of the lining and the outside of the bag were sewn to lay in opposite directions to keep the thickness of the material as minimal as possible.  Nice details, such as inside pockets, a button loop, and gentle curves, make this bag a winner.

Pocketses

Construction directions were clear – and if I had not read them I would not have done it right.  You sew the lining and body together, right sides together, and get this.

Inside Out

Through an opening left in the lining, you pull the bag right side out!

Right Side Out

The material itself is a bit heavier than calico-weight cotton, sort of a lightweight upholstery, but not a duck.  It is 100% cotton, and although dry cleaning is recommended, I washed the material in hot water and dried it on hot – I like to shrink anything I know is going to go into the washing machine.  (I don’t know anyone who would dry clean a purse!)  I needed about 2 yards of material, and the stuff I used was 60 inches wide.  The body of the purse and the lining match, as do the pockets.   Because I wanted a bit of body to the overall purse, I decided on the interfacing for the lining and external part of the purse, and am glad I did – lightweight, but not shapeless.

Long StrapsDetails